Often referred to as the most popular vegetables to grow, tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) can add some color to your garden. Whether you start them indoors from seed about six weeks before transplanting, or use store-bought transplants once night temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, these heavy feeders rely on you to thrive. This means properly prepping the soil before transplanting and providing the nutrients the young plants need. When done right, the tomatoes will be harvest-ready in no time.
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are one of the most commonly grown vegetable garden plants due to their variety of functions in the kitchen. Whether you're growing large slicing tomatoes for burgers and salads or growing sauce tomatoes for an Italian feast, fertilizer requirements are the same, but there are a few other factors that lead to healthy harvests.
Soil test
A soil test can determine the availability of nutrients in your garden's soil, which is critical to the survival and growth of vegetables. Perform the test early in the planning process, because any amendments you make can take about two years to have an effect. Use a commercial soil testing kit or consult your local cooperative extension service about soil testing. A soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal for tomatoes. According to the test results, till limestone into the top 7 inches of soil to raise it, or incorporate sulfur to lower it.
Organic matter
Tomatoes aren't picky about the type of soil they grow in as long as it's fertile and drains well. In coastal areas, gardens tend to have loamy soil that's sometimes of a clay or sandy texture. To prevent clay soils from draining slowly, and sandy soils from draining too fast, work a 2-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings, into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. This improves the soil structure and enhances its nutrient- and water-holding capacity while also promoting aeration.
Fertilizing
When fertilizing, avoid using a high-nitrogen fertilizer, because this triggers more foliage growth than fruit growth. To fertilize at transplanting time, dig a hole 6 to 8 inches deep and wide enough to fit the transplant. Then place 1 1/2 tablespoon of a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the hole and backfill it with 3 inches of soil. Then plant the transplant on top of this. Over time, the plant roots will grow toward the fertilizer and absorb nutrients from it.
Side-dressing
If you've provided your tomato transplants with ideal growing conditions, side-dressing them is another fertilizing option. After transplanting, once the tomatoes have grown to the size of a golf ball, dig a 1 inch deep, circular trench in a 6 inch diameter around the plant stem. Spread 1 1/2 tablespoon of a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the trench and cover it with 2 inches of soil. Then water the soil to bring the nutrients to the plant roots. Wait three weeks before repeating this process.
N-P-K ratio
All fertilizers have a three-digit number printed somewhere on the package. This number is known as the N-P-K ratio and tells you what percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is in the fertilizer. These three nutrients are the most commonly deficient in soils and the three that plants need the most, including tomatoes. While each of these nutrients has a long list of benefits to plants, a basic breakdown is: nitrogen is responsible for strong, green growth; phosphorus aids in bud, bloom and fruit production; and potassium is pivotal in water uptake.
Other growing tips
Tomatoes grow best in alkaline soil with a pH around 6.5, although slightly above or below this won't be detrimental if other conditions are met. They also require full sun and consistent moisture. Add organic material into the top 8 inches of soil to improve drainage. Consistent moisture is pivotal for tomatoes: those that don't receive consistent moisture, such as during a drought or from watering too much during different parts of the growing season, may develop blossom-end rot or other problems.
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are one of the most commonly grown vegetable garden plants due to their variety of functions in the kitchen. Whether you're growing large slicing tomatoes for burgers and salads or growing sauce tomatoes for an Italian feast, fertilizer requirements are the same, but there are a few other factors that lead to healthy harvests.
Ways
Soil test
A soil test can determine the availability of nutrients in your garden's soil, which is critical to the survival and growth of vegetables. Perform the test early in the planning process, because any amendments you make can take about two years to have an effect. Use a commercial soil testing kit or consult your local cooperative extension service about soil testing. A soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal for tomatoes. According to the test results, till limestone into the top 7 inches of soil to raise it, or incorporate sulfur to lower it.
Organic matter
Tomatoes aren't picky about the type of soil they grow in as long as it's fertile and drains well. In coastal areas, gardens tend to have loamy soil that's sometimes of a clay or sandy texture. To prevent clay soils from draining slowly, and sandy soils from draining too fast, work a 2-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or grass clippings, into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. This improves the soil structure and enhances its nutrient- and water-holding capacity while also promoting aeration.
Fertilizing
When fertilizing, avoid using a high-nitrogen fertilizer, because this triggers more foliage growth than fruit growth. To fertilize at transplanting time, dig a hole 6 to 8 inches deep and wide enough to fit the transplant. Then place 1 1/2 tablespoon of a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the hole and backfill it with 3 inches of soil. Then plant the transplant on top of this. Over time, the plant roots will grow toward the fertilizer and absorb nutrients from it.
Side-dressing
If you've provided your tomato transplants with ideal growing conditions, side-dressing them is another fertilizing option. After transplanting, once the tomatoes have grown to the size of a golf ball, dig a 1 inch deep, circular trench in a 6 inch diameter around the plant stem. Spread 1 1/2 tablespoon of a 5-10-10 fertilizer in the trench and cover it with 2 inches of soil. Then water the soil to bring the nutrients to the plant roots. Wait three weeks before repeating this process.
Nutrients
All fertilizers have a three-digit number printed somewhere on the package. This number is known as the N-P-K ratio and tells you what percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is in the fertilizer. These three nutrients are the most commonly deficient in soils and the three that plants need the most, including tomatoes. While each of these nutrients has a long list of benefits to plants, a basic breakdown is: nitrogen is responsible for strong, green growth; phosphorus aids in bud, bloom and fruit production; and potassium is pivotal in water uptake.
Best ratio?
If you choose to forgo a soil test -- although it's highly recommended for accuracy -- apply a complete fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Look for an N-P-K ratio of 8-32-16 or 6-24-24 for optimum results. Apply this type of fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. These ratios are sometimes harder to come by in nurseries and garden centers; if you can't find these ratios, choose a fertilizer with 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, which are much more common. Apply these fertilizers at a rate of 2 cups per 100 square feet.
Tips for choosing
Nurseries and garden centers often have rows upon rows of different types of fertilizers, including organic and synthetic, granular and liquid. Some fertilizers are specifically marketed to different applications and chances are you'll see one designed specifically for tomatoes. Even if the fertilizer is marketed for tomatoes, still look at the ratio. Other fertilizers to look at during your search are those designed for flowers or vegetable gardens, sometimes called "Bud and Bloom," "Vegetable Garden Fertilizer" or something similar. These often have the high levels of phosphorus needed by tomatoes because this nutrient helps produce bigger, healthier buds, blooms and fruit.
If you choose to forgo a soil test -- although it's highly recommended for accuracy -- apply a complete fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. Look for an N-P-K ratio of 8-32-16 or 6-24-24 for optimum results. Apply this type of fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. These ratios are sometimes harder to come by in nurseries and garden centers; if you can't find these ratios, choose a fertilizer with 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, which are much more common. Apply these fertilizers at a rate of 2 cups per 100 square feet.
Tips for choosing
Nurseries and garden centers often have rows upon rows of different types of fertilizers, including organic and synthetic, granular and liquid. Some fertilizers are specifically marketed to different applications and chances are you'll see one designed specifically for tomatoes. Even if the fertilizer is marketed for tomatoes, still look at the ratio. Other fertilizers to look at during your search are those designed for flowers or vegetable gardens, sometimes called "Bud and Bloom," "Vegetable Garden Fertilizer" or something similar. These often have the high levels of phosphorus needed by tomatoes because this nutrient helps produce bigger, healthier buds, blooms and fruit.
Other growing tips
Tomatoes grow best in alkaline soil with a pH around 6.5, although slightly above or below this won't be detrimental if other conditions are met. They also require full sun and consistent moisture. Add organic material into the top 8 inches of soil to improve drainage. Consistent moisture is pivotal for tomatoes: those that don't receive consistent moisture, such as during a drought or from watering too much during different parts of the growing season, may develop blossom-end rot or other problems.
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