Tomato plants grown in greenhouses have the same nutrient requirements as garden-grown tomato plants. The amount and types of fertilizers needed will depend on the make-up of the soil. Because of this, testing the soil before adding fertilizers is essential. Fertilizers and amendments are added before planting, with additional fertilizers applied throughout the growing cycle. Liquid, granular, powder or another type of fertilizer can be used. If you use a commercially produced "complete" fertilizer, look for one formulated specifically for greenhouse tomato growing. Complete greenhouse fertilizers are usually low in nitrogen and high in potassium with moderate phosphorus and additional nutrients needed for tomatoes.
Indoor growing
Growing tomatoes indoors requires irrigation systems, sterile growing mediums, aeration techniques and temperature controls. One of the advantages of growing tomatoes indoors is the ability to control every aspect of the plant's environment. Such control allows a grower to produce high yield crops at any time of year. Irrigation systems often recycle water and, since most tomato fertilizers are distributed via irrigation water, the fertilizer content must be monitored to ensure that there is not a nutrient build-up or the reverse.
Irrigation systems
Drip irrigation and overhead spray systems are the dominant forms of irrigation used for tomato greenhouse crops. Home gardeners with small greenhouses may hand-water their tomatoes in a manner similar to that used on outdoor plants. The benefits of drip irrigation, however, are that the system can be set to a timer, and the fertilizer and water are evenly distributed at timed intervals. Place drip irrigation emitters near a plant's base. Overhead watering systems may contribute to foliar diseases, especially if overhead foliage isn't provided with adequate aeration.
Nutrients
Tomatoes require the major nutrients -- nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous -- as well as high amounts of calcium and magnesium. Calcium and magnesium supplements must be used alongside general fertilizers. Calcium nitrate, in concentrated form, cannot be included within a concentrated general fertilizer because of incompatible chemical reactions. Tomato growers rig their drip irrigation systems with two separate emitters and drip lines -- one for the distribution of general fertilizer and the other with the calcium nitrate mix.
Considerations
Many companies produce liquid fertilizers suited for indoor growing. Fertilizer formulas are displayed on the outside of containers. The first number in the formula indicates the amount of nitrogen available in the solution. The second number indicates the amount of phosphorous, and the third is the amount of potassium. The numbers are in a ratio. A common formula suited for tomato growing is a 15-5-15 fertilizer. This fertilizer, along with calcium nitrate supplements, will provide your indoor tomatoes with the nutrients they need to grow.
A soil rich in organic matter is best for helping the tomatoes absorb and utilize nutrients. Mix in compost until you get the mixture of soil you will use for the plants. Take soil samples for testing either by a university extension service or with a home test kit. The soil test will tell you the pH of the soil, as well as whether the soil is low or high in phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, and other nutrients, depending on the test. If pH is high, amending with peat moss or sulfur will lower it. If pH is low, adding lime will make the soil less acidic. Leaf tissue analysis through the growth cycles will tell you how much of the nutrients are being absorbed by the plants.
Nitrogen is important for the growth of the leaves and stems of the tomato plant. On fertilizer labels, the nitrogen content is indicated by the first number in the N-P-K ratio. Fertilizers including the word "nitrate," such as ammonium nitrate, are good sources of nitrogen. A nitrogen deficiency is indicated by light green or yellowish leaves and pale flowers. However, too much nitrogen in the soil will result in large stems and lush leaf growth, but few fruit.
Phosphorus content is the second number listed in the N-P-K ratio on the fertilizer label. Sources of phosphorus will often have "phosphate" in the name, such as monopotassium phosphate. Phosphorus is important for the growth of plant roots and aids in the formation of blooms and fruit set. Insufficient phosphorus is indicated by a purplish hue in stems and thin growth. It is not usually found in toxic amounts in the soil.
Potassium is the third number in the N-P-K ratio. Potassium helps the fruit form correctly and ripen well. If there is not enough potassium, the fruit can develop poorly. Magnesium deficiency is common in greenhouse tomatoes and is indicated by yellow leaf veins. Calcium deficiency can result in blossom end rot. Calcium, magnesium and potassium should be applied in equal amounts so they do not block the absorption of the other minerals if there is too much of one in the soil.
Nutrient balance
The most important nutrient to balance properly is nitrogen. Too much nitrogen stimulates lush early foliage but produces plants that are small with soft growth, small flower clusters, poor bloom and fruit set. An 8-32-15 or 6-24-24 tomato-specific fertilizer works well because of the low level of nitrogen in these blends. Calcium nitrate is an excellent nitrogen delivery compound because it also delivers calcium, which promotes strong cell walls and disease resistance. Potassium and phosphorus also promote strong, healthy, disease- and pest-resistant plants and a bumper crop of fruit. Tomato plants normally absorb micronutrients from the soil's clay and organic fractions, but, in soil-less systems, these micro-nutrients must be provided by nutrient solutions.
Fertilizers
Commercial fertilizers for greenhouses can be obtained through horticultural supply vendors who tailor fertilizers for specific crops and for soil and soil-less systems. Different fertilizers are necessary at different stages of growth for tomato plants, particularly in the fruit production stage. Ripening tomatoes absorb potassium from other plants if insufficient amounts are found in the soil. This can cause plant stress, weakened stems, poor leaf development and crop damage. The biggest greenhouse tomato problem is too much nitrogen and too little potassium and calcium. Tomato-specific fertilizers address this problem pro-actively.
Container soil systems
Container tomato plants in greenhouses should be 18 to 24 inches apart. If you use fans to stir the air, promote pollination and dry foliage, you can space them slightly closer together. A liquid combination tomato-specific fertilizer applied according to manufacturer's directions is all you really need. Watch for symptoms of stress in leaves and flowers, test the soil and apply potassium, phosphorous or calcium as needed. Be careful not to overdo the nitrogen.
Ground bed soil systems
In open-soil greenhouses, space the plants 24 to 36 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. If you use a combination fertilizer, apply a 0-20-20 fertilizer at 1,000 to 2,000 lbs. per acre after harvest and before the fall crop. Apply 650 to 100 lbs. an acre of 0-20-20 before the spring crop. If you test your soil and find it low in phosphate, you can apply 300 to 500 lbs. of 46 percent triple phosphate per acre. For low potassium levels, apply 300 to 400 lbs. of potassium sulfate per acre. Add calcium nitrate for a rare nitrogen deficiency. Calcium nitrate also provides needed calcium. Avoid any nitrogen fertilizers with ammonium in them for tomatoes. Apply 3.5 lbs. of calcium nitrate per 100 feet of row, stirring the top inch of soil.
Closed-system hydroponic
Hydroponic systems grow plants in troughs or tubes. The plants are anchored in gravel, sand or artificial soil-less mixes, or even without anchoring media in a nutrient film. Such systems require pumps to recirculate nutrient media at 1.5 to 2 quarts per minute. The grower must monitor pH levels and chemical balances in the nutrient solution. It must be balanced to be lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium and phosphorus than for typical vegetable crops. Commercial nutrient mixes for hydroponic tomatoes include micronutrients normally found in the soil. To prevent buildup of toxic substances exuded by root systems, change the nutrient solution every two to three weeks -- more often during peak growth periods -- and include charcoal filters in the system.
Artificial media
Bag culture soil-less systems use artificial media like rockwool in 3 to 4 cubic-foot bags. Plant two rows of tomatoes per bag spaced 16 inches apart in rows 6 feet apart. A drip irrigation system distributes the nutrient solution, adjusting the amount depending on the temperatures in the greenhouse. Nutrient solution should keep the media moist but not soggy. Collect the excess to provide drainage and prevent fertilizer salts buildup.
Tomato have their own unique nutritional needs compared to other vegetables or fruit crops. In greenhouses, tomatoes are grown in both ground beds, containers filled with soil, and soil-less closed hydroponic cultures and artificial media. Whatever system you use, the nutrient requirements for tomato varieties are still relatively the same, though the delivery systems may differ.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Their flower and fruit production requires high amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium -- the three major nutrients available in garden soil. Whether the vegetable is produced indoors or out, nutrient supplements are necessary to encourage high yields. Fertilizers are added as side-dressings throughout the growing season and can be applied in granules or through a mist system. The amount of fertilizers and the methods of distribution are best determined by the type of plant and its growing conditions.
Nutrients Needed to Grow Tomatoes in a Greenhouse
Indoor growing
Growing tomatoes indoors requires irrigation systems, sterile growing mediums, aeration techniques and temperature controls. One of the advantages of growing tomatoes indoors is the ability to control every aspect of the plant's environment. Such control allows a grower to produce high yield crops at any time of year. Irrigation systems often recycle water and, since most tomato fertilizers are distributed via irrigation water, the fertilizer content must be monitored to ensure that there is not a nutrient build-up or the reverse.
Irrigation systems
Drip irrigation and overhead spray systems are the dominant forms of irrigation used for tomato greenhouse crops. Home gardeners with small greenhouses may hand-water their tomatoes in a manner similar to that used on outdoor plants. The benefits of drip irrigation, however, are that the system can be set to a timer, and the fertilizer and water are evenly distributed at timed intervals. Place drip irrigation emitters near a plant's base. Overhead watering systems may contribute to foliar diseases, especially if overhead foliage isn't provided with adequate aeration.
Nutrients
Tomatoes require the major nutrients -- nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous -- as well as high amounts of calcium and magnesium. Calcium and magnesium supplements must be used alongside general fertilizers. Calcium nitrate, in concentrated form, cannot be included within a concentrated general fertilizer because of incompatible chemical reactions. Tomato growers rig their drip irrigation systems with two separate emitters and drip lines -- one for the distribution of general fertilizer and the other with the calcium nitrate mix.
Considerations
Many companies produce liquid fertilizers suited for indoor growing. Fertilizer formulas are displayed on the outside of containers. The first number in the formula indicates the amount of nitrogen available in the solution. The second number indicates the amount of phosphorous, and the third is the amount of potassium. The numbers are in a ratio. A common formula suited for tomato growing is a 15-5-15 fertilizer. This fertilizer, along with calcium nitrate supplements, will provide your indoor tomatoes with the nutrients they need to grow.
Soil Testing
A soil rich in organic matter is best for helping the tomatoes absorb and utilize nutrients. Mix in compost until you get the mixture of soil you will use for the plants. Take soil samples for testing either by a university extension service or with a home test kit. The soil test will tell you the pH of the soil, as well as whether the soil is low or high in phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, and other nutrients, depending on the test. If pH is high, amending with peat moss or sulfur will lower it. If pH is low, adding lime will make the soil less acidic. Leaf tissue analysis through the growth cycles will tell you how much of the nutrients are being absorbed by the plants.
Nitrogen
Nitrogen is important for the growth of the leaves and stems of the tomato plant. On fertilizer labels, the nitrogen content is indicated by the first number in the N-P-K ratio. Fertilizers including the word "nitrate," such as ammonium nitrate, are good sources of nitrogen. A nitrogen deficiency is indicated by light green or yellowish leaves and pale flowers. However, too much nitrogen in the soil will result in large stems and lush leaf growth, but few fruit.
Phosphorus
Phosphorus content is the second number listed in the N-P-K ratio on the fertilizer label. Sources of phosphorus will often have "phosphate" in the name, such as monopotassium phosphate. Phosphorus is important for the growth of plant roots and aids in the formation of blooms and fruit set. Insufficient phosphorus is indicated by a purplish hue in stems and thin growth. It is not usually found in toxic amounts in the soil.
Potassium, calcium and magnesium
Potassium is the third number in the N-P-K ratio. Potassium helps the fruit form correctly and ripen well. If there is not enough potassium, the fruit can develop poorly. Magnesium deficiency is common in greenhouse tomatoes and is indicated by yellow leaf veins. Calcium deficiency can result in blossom end rot. Calcium, magnesium and potassium should be applied in equal amounts so they do not block the absorption of the other minerals if there is too much of one in the soil.
More information
Nutrient balance
The most important nutrient to balance properly is nitrogen. Too much nitrogen stimulates lush early foliage but produces plants that are small with soft growth, small flower clusters, poor bloom and fruit set. An 8-32-15 or 6-24-24 tomato-specific fertilizer works well because of the low level of nitrogen in these blends. Calcium nitrate is an excellent nitrogen delivery compound because it also delivers calcium, which promotes strong cell walls and disease resistance. Potassium and phosphorus also promote strong, healthy, disease- and pest-resistant plants and a bumper crop of fruit. Tomato plants normally absorb micronutrients from the soil's clay and organic fractions, but, in soil-less systems, these micro-nutrients must be provided by nutrient solutions.
Fertilizers
Commercial fertilizers for greenhouses can be obtained through horticultural supply vendors who tailor fertilizers for specific crops and for soil and soil-less systems. Different fertilizers are necessary at different stages of growth for tomato plants, particularly in the fruit production stage. Ripening tomatoes absorb potassium from other plants if insufficient amounts are found in the soil. This can cause plant stress, weakened stems, poor leaf development and crop damage. The biggest greenhouse tomato problem is too much nitrogen and too little potassium and calcium. Tomato-specific fertilizers address this problem pro-actively.
Container soil systems
Container tomato plants in greenhouses should be 18 to 24 inches apart. If you use fans to stir the air, promote pollination and dry foliage, you can space them slightly closer together. A liquid combination tomato-specific fertilizer applied according to manufacturer's directions is all you really need. Watch for symptoms of stress in leaves and flowers, test the soil and apply potassium, phosphorous or calcium as needed. Be careful not to overdo the nitrogen.
Ground bed soil systems
In open-soil greenhouses, space the plants 24 to 36 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. If you use a combination fertilizer, apply a 0-20-20 fertilizer at 1,000 to 2,000 lbs. per acre after harvest and before the fall crop. Apply 650 to 100 lbs. an acre of 0-20-20 before the spring crop. If you test your soil and find it low in phosphate, you can apply 300 to 500 lbs. of 46 percent triple phosphate per acre. For low potassium levels, apply 300 to 400 lbs. of potassium sulfate per acre. Add calcium nitrate for a rare nitrogen deficiency. Calcium nitrate also provides needed calcium. Avoid any nitrogen fertilizers with ammonium in them for tomatoes. Apply 3.5 lbs. of calcium nitrate per 100 feet of row, stirring the top inch of soil.
Closed-system hydroponic
Hydroponic systems grow plants in troughs or tubes. The plants are anchored in gravel, sand or artificial soil-less mixes, or even without anchoring media in a nutrient film. Such systems require pumps to recirculate nutrient media at 1.5 to 2 quarts per minute. The grower must monitor pH levels and chemical balances in the nutrient solution. It must be balanced to be lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium and phosphorus than for typical vegetable crops. Commercial nutrient mixes for hydroponic tomatoes include micronutrients normally found in the soil. To prevent buildup of toxic substances exuded by root systems, change the nutrient solution every two to three weeks -- more often during peak growth periods -- and include charcoal filters in the system.
Artificial media
Bag culture soil-less systems use artificial media like rockwool in 3 to 4 cubic-foot bags. Plant two rows of tomatoes per bag spaced 16 inches apart in rows 6 feet apart. A drip irrigation system distributes the nutrient solution, adjusting the amount depending on the temperatures in the greenhouse. Nutrient solution should keep the media moist but not soggy. Collect the excess to provide drainage and prevent fertilizer salts buildup.
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar