Transplanting tomato seedlings

Transplanting tomato seedlings is an important step. This page shows all the steps taken to transplant a tomato seedling.

How big can a tomato plant be for transplanting?

Tomatoes are one of the few food-producing plants that can be quite large and still transplant without serious consequences. As long as the plant is in good condition, the roots are not damaged during transplanting, and it is placed in a hole adequately large, even fruit-bearing tomatoes can be transplanted.

Ideal Transplant Size
In a perfect world, the weather cooperates at the exact moment your transplants are 6 to 8 weeks old and about 6 inches tall and wide. A stout plant this size is ready to be set into the garden with about 1 1/2 inches of its top sticking out of the ground.

Older Transplants
Beefy, older transplants can still be placed in the garden, though it may take more work. Although plants this age may be already trying to produce flowers, make sure you pinch them off as soon as they form. Likely the stress of transplantation will cause the flowers to collapse anyway, and with them gone, the plant can focus on repairing and expanding its root system. It's still a good idea to plant the transplant 75 percent below ground, but may not be possible if the plant is very large.

Leggy transplants
Sometimes, young transplants suddenly take off, producing long and spindly growth. These leggy transplants are not unusable, and you can plant them in a horizontal trench several inches below the soil to encourage further root development. Be careful about providing these transplants with any more nitrogen because it can cause more tall, thin growth.

Transplant Care
Once your tomato has been put into the soil, there's not much more that needs to be done except to water it well. Water is the single most important thing you can do for a transplant. If your transplant was rather large when you planted it, pinching off side branches can help to focus its growth to a single stem and keep it more compact. Wait to fertilize until fruits form and reach about one-third of their final size. Placing a tomato cage early will simplify training.

Repotting tomato seedlings

When tomato seedlings are three or four inches tall and have their second pair of leaves, it's time to take them out of their crowded containers and put them into deeper, roomier ones. (If you started seedlings in individual containers at least three inches square, simply thin out the weaker plants by snipping them off at the soil line and leaving the strongest one.)

Choosing The Right Container
Any part of the tomato stem that's covered with soil will develop roots, and a large root system is important for transplants. Try using a deeper container and set the plants lower than they were growing before - right up to the lowest set of leaves, if you can. Use the same soil mix that you used to start your seeds. Here are some hints for successful repotting:

• Water the tomatoes well before you start to repot. Moist soil will cling to the roots and protect them from drying.
• Lever the seedlings out of the soil with a small utensil, such as a table knife. Lift the plants by their leaves, if necessary, rather than by their stems - if you lose a leaf, it can grow back, but if you break the stem below the leaves, the plant won't make it.
• Set the seedlings about three inches apart in their new container(s). Firm the soil around them, and water gently. Keep out of bright sunlight for a day or two.
• Fertilize once a week with liquid fertilizer. Follow the directions for dilution on the label. Some recommend different dilution and application rates for seedlings versus houseplants or full-grown plants.

The Second Transplant
Before the tomato plants can be transplanted successfully to the garden, they need to develop strong root and top growth. To be sure their seedlings have a good root system, many gardeners prefer to repot them a second time before setting them out in the garden. Wait until seedlings are six to 10 inches tall. A good rule is to transplant when the height of your seedling is three times the diameter of its pot. Pot them up individually in half-gallon milk cartons or four- to six-inch-diameter pots. Again, you can plant them right up to their first set of leaves.

Indoor Care
If your seedlings are getting tall and spindly, the room temperature may bee too high, the light too weak, or you're using too much fertilizer (or a combination of all three). Review seedling needs in Starting Tomatoes from Seed and adjust growing conditions as needed. Transplanting leggy seedlings deeply helps them to root along their stems, thus reducing the problem, but the best solution is to give your young plants proper growing conditions in the first place.

How to transplant a tomato plant while budding?

Gardeners eagerly look forward to harvesting juicy, vine-ripened tomatoes all summer long. In cooler climates, gardeners often start tomato seedlings indoors to give the plants a head start on the growing season, but if left in their containers for too long, tomato plants often start producing flowers and fruit. Transplanting a tomato plant during flowering may briefly stunt the plant, causing delayed growth and fruit production. Tomatoes, however, are hardy vigorous plants that can recover from late transplanting with little trouble.

1. Select a site for tomatoes before transplanting. Choose a site with rich, sandy soil where the plants will receive full sun for at least 14 hours per day.
2. Prepare the garden soil. For each plant, mix 4 cups of composted organic matter and 4 to 6 cups of all-purpose fertilizer, such as 16-16-8, into the soil.
3. Harden off indoor-grown tomato plants by gradually leaving them outside daily for longer periods over one to two weeks. Place the plants in a shady spot at first, then move them into the sun for a few hours more each day.
4. Transplant tomato plants after all danger of frost has passed, on a cloudy day, in the late afternoon or early evening.
5. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the tomato plant's root ball. If transplanting multiple plants, space holes at least 2 feet apart and rows 2 to 3 feet apart.
6. Lift the tomato plant out of its container carefully, taking care not to disturb the roots.
7. Set the tomato plant's root ball in the hole, then fill the hole with soil.
8. Give tomato transplants 1 or 2 inches of water immediately after planting and once per week thereafter. Water at the soil level.
9. Fertilize tomato plants with one-half tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizer four and eight weeks after transplanting.
10. Remove some flower clusters from side stems, if desired. The plant will produce fewer fruits, but the fruit will be larger and tastier.
11. Cut off suckers, or smaller branches growing between the crotch of two larger branches. Removing suckers results in a more vigorous plant and better-quality fruit. For determinate tomatoes, only remove suckers below the first flower cluster.

Transplanting mature tomato plants

Tomatoes begin flowering and setting fruit once they reach maturity. It's best to plant tomato seedlings outdoors before they reach this stage, but weather or other conditions may result in mature plants that require planting outdoors. The stems of mature tomatoes often become weak and overly tall in their containers when they are transplanted late, but you can reverse some of the damage and encourage healthy future growth by using the best transplant method.

Hardening Off
Increased sun exposure, wind and weather can shock a tomato transplant if you move it straight to the garden from indoors. Hardening off helps the plant adjust to outdoor conditions and minimizes the shock. Begin by setting the tomato transplants outside, still in their pots, in a protected area after all frost danger passes. A covered patio or an area with light shade and wind protection works well. Leave the plants outdoors for two hours on the first day. Gradually increase the time outdoors and move them so they receive more direct sun exposure daily, until they are spending the entire day outside in a full-sun location by the seventh day.

Soil Preparation
Rich soil and six to eight hours of daily sunlight helps tomato transplants, both mature plants and seedlings, establish quickly in the garden. Select a well-drained site and amend it by working a 2-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of the soil. You can add a general-purpose vegetable garden fertilizer to the bed prior to planting, or you can use a liquid starter fertilizer after planting. Fertilizer amounts vary, but generally 1 cup per 10 square feet of bed before planting, worked into the soil with the compost, provides sufficient nutrients. Mix liquid starter fertilizers with water according to package directions, then water the transplants with the solution immediately after planting.

Horizontal Planting
Mature tomato plants still growing in seedling pots often have a small root system and weak stems. Tomatoes can produce new roots off the stem if it's buried, so planting mature plants deeper can solve both the weak stem and small root problem. Dig an 8-inch-wide hole that's deep enough to bury the tomato stem up to the second or third leaf set from the top of the plant. Remove the plant from its pot and set the plant in the hole at an angle so only those top leaves are above the soil surface, then strip off any leaves or flowers that are below the soil surface. Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly, using a starter fertilizer solution if desired.

Early Care
Small 6- to 8-inch-tall transplants usually establish quickly after transplanting, but mature plants may experience some delay. Flowers may drop off and the plant may grow slowly initially as it focuses on producing an adequate root system to support the older plant. Provide the mature transplant with regular watering that keeps the top 6 inches of soil moist. Usually 1 inch of water applied weekly is sufficient to maintain soil moisture. A 2-inch layer of straw mulch helps conserve the moisture in the soil and also minimizes weeds. The plants will require staking or a cage once they resume upward growth.

Transplanting tall tomato plants

The tangy sweet flavor of a tomato fresh from the garden makes this plant one of the most popular for the home garden. The plants start from seed or as transplants from the greenhouse. Homegrown seedlings must be hardened off to acclimate them to the outdoors. Nurseries harden off the plants before offering them for sale. The seedlings go into the garden when all danger of frost is gone. The average tomato seedling that is ready for transplant is 6 to 8 inches tall. The tomato plant usually is placed into the garden so that 4 to 6 inches of the plant are above the soil line. Tomato seedlings taller than 6 to 8 inches may be spindly and need to be buried deeper so that the tomato plant grows strong and straight.

1. Till the soil to a depth of 12 inches or more. Tomatoes have a long tap root, and well-tilled soil allows the tap root to grow deep into the ground. Work well-rotted manure into the soil as you till to provide nutrients to the tomato plants.
2. Dig a trench at an angle so that when the tomato plant is in place, the top few inches of the plant are above the soil line. Pinch off any leaves that may be under the soil when transplanted. The deep planting allows the plant to build a healthy stem and root system before growing taller. The short section of the plant above the soil will straighten up as it grows. Set the tomato plant aside for the moment.
3. Drive a 6-foot garden stake into the soil beside the trench prior to planting the tomato seedling. If the tomato stake is added later, it could damage the buried stem. Set the stake close to where the top of the tomato seedling will be exposed.
4. Lay the tall tomato plant in the trench. The top section should be close to the garden stake. Cover the stem with soil, and water the planting site. The plant will grow toward the sunlight and become straight.

How to transplant tomato seedlings sideways?

Tomatoes are among the most common vegetables grown in the garden and one of the plants that gardeners often like to start indoors from seed. When exposed to low-intensity lights, tomato seedlings may grow tall and lean, instead of remaining more compact and bushy. These leggy tomato seedlings need to be planted in a trench instead of simply buried in a hole since the depth required to give them a good transplantation is often significant, slowing growth because the root ball is kept too cool.

1. Dig a trench in your prepared tomato bed the length of your plant, wide enough to accommodate its root ball and deep enough that the top of the root ball will be 2 to 3 inches below the surface of the soil -- a shallow planting may cause the root ball to dry out too quickly.
2. Remove all but the top two or three sets of leaves and score any biodegradable pots with a utility knife. Lay the plant in the trench on its side, butting the root ball against one end of the trench. Scoop enough soil into the trench to form a wedge at the opposite end, near the foliage -- it should support the leafy top of the tomato as it emerges from the soil.
3. Scoop the rest of the soil back into the trench where the tomato is resting. Press the soil down firmly with your hands to hold the top of the plant in place. Water the trench thoroughly before applying 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch to the entire trench to help the young plant retain moisture.

How much fertilizer to use when transplanting tomato seedlings?

Transplanting tomatoes into a nutrient-rich garden bed helps start them off right so they produce at their best and remain healthy for the entire season. Tomatoes require three main nutrients to grow well: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Amending the soil with the right fertilizer before you plant the tomatoes encourages healthy root establishment, lush foliage growth, and strong flowering and fruit set.

Soil Amendments
Tomatoes have specific soil needs to grow well. The plants require a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If vegetables have grown well in the bed previously, the soil likely falls within this range, but a soil test can determine the exact pH and provide guidelines for adjusting it. Ground limestone amendments raise pH, while sulfur lowers pH. Apply these amendments in the amount recommended by the test, preferably at least three months before planting the tomatoes. Working a 2-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil immediately before transplanting also improves nutrition and soil quality.

Slow-Release Fertilizer
A slow-release fertilizer, or granular fertilizer, releases nutrients slowly so it can feed the new transplants for up to two months before you need to add more fertilizer. Balanced fertilizers, or those with a nutrient ratio of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10, supply equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, along with trace minerals the plants need. Work 1/2 cup of fertilizer into the bed for each tomato you are planting. Incorporate the fertilizer with the top 6 inches of soil before transplanting so the nutrients are worked into the root zone area of the garden bed.

Starter Fertilizer
Although starter fertilization isn't necessary if you use a slow-release fertilizer before transplanting, the starter solution can encourage healthy initial growth until the tomato roots are established enough to begin drawing nutrients out of the soil. Dissolve 1/2 pound of an 8-8-8 slow-release fertilizer in 5 gallons of warm water. Water each tomato plant with 1 cup of the solution immediately after transplanting it in the garden. You can also use a purchased starter formula made for tomatoes or vegetables.

Maintenance Fertilization
If the tomatoes are properly fertilized when you transplant them outdoors, they won't require any more fertilizer until they begin developing their first fruits. Apply 2 tablespoons of the slow-release 8-8-8 fertilizer for each tomato plant. Work the fertilizer into the top 2 or 3 inches of soil, about six inches away from the plant stem, then water thoroughly after application. Repeating this application every four to six weeks keeps the plants at peak production through the remainder of the growing season.

How to transplant tomato seedlings in the ground?

In spring, when the ground starts to warm up, all kinds of seedlings show up at nurseries and markets. Tomatoes are a warm-weather crop that need a long, hot growing season to develop and ripen. To get tomatoes in summer, spring is the time to plant, but not too early or the tender seedlings will suffer in the cold soil.

Seedling Selection
Whether you're planting seedlings you bought, or your own starts from the greenhouse, it's important to wait until the plants are mature enough before planting them out in the garden. Tomato seedlings are ready to plant when they are between 8 and 10 inches tall with a stalk about the thickness of a pencil. Look for seedlings with dark green foliage when buying plants. Tomato seedlings are usually ready to plant three to five weeks after germination.

Soil Temperature
Tomato seedlings can go in the ground in the spring when the soil warms up to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A soil thermometer is a useful tool for checking the soil temperatures. Just make sure to insert the thermometer into the soil as deep as the planting holes will be to get an accurate reading. Taking a reading at the top of the soil on a sunny day will be inaccurate. If the thermometer reads below 50 F, wait to plant. The cold soil will stunt the seedling growth and weaken the plants.

Air Temperature
All seedlings are sensitive to frost, and tomatoes are no exception. Fresh from the greenhouse, the tender plants are used to a warm environment and even the lightest frost can be fatal. Wait to plant tomato seedlings until all chance of frost has passed and daytime temperatures are regularly above 60 F and night temperatures above 32 F. When moving plants from the greenhouse outdoors, it's a good idea to harden off the plants by putting them out during the day and taking them in at night for a few days before planting.

Planting Tomato Seedlings
Tomato seedlings are planted with the root ball and one-third of the stalk buried under the ground. The plants produce roots from the portion of the stalk under the soil line, strengthening the plant overall and preventing it from being weak and leggy. Plants that are already tall and leggy can be planted at a 30-degree angle in the ground with most of the stalk under the soil line and the upper foliage above the soil.