As a tomato plant grows, the sugar it produces prompts it to produce new branches, leaves, flowers and eventually, fruit. You may think that a bigger tomato plant is a better one, since it will provide you with more fruit. Indeterminate tomato plants, however, may grow large enough to cover a 4-by-4-foot area if you don't prune them. Such a plant makes it difficult to harvest fruit and is a magnet for disease. Pruning your tomato plants regularly will keep them tidy, manageable and disease-free.
Identifying suckers
When gardeners speak of pruning their tomato plants, they're typically referring to suckers. Suckers are the stems that grow between a plant's main stem and a side stem. These stems jut out at a 45-degree angle and are best removed when just starting to grow. If allowed to grow, suckers eventually develop into a new stem that can reach several feet in length. Suckers produce very little fruit, and what fruit they do make tends to be of low quality and they rob the plant of energy it needs to make large, healthy fruit.
Determinate or indeterminate
Indeterminate and determinate plants grow very differently, so they're also pruned differently. Determinate plants grow to a set size and produce a set number of stems and fruit. They don't usually need pruning and vigorous pruning will actually harm your harvest. If you must prune determinate tomato plants, only remove diseased leaves or those that touch the ground. Indeterminate plants will continue growing throughout the season until killed by frost or disease. They can produce an unlimited number of tomatoes until then. They'll also keep producing stems, although these stems generally only weaken the plant, so they must be pruned.
Removing suckers
It's best to remove suckers below a plant's first set of fruit for a strong main stem, although you can eliminate them anywhere you don't want a side stem to grow. When you see a young sucker, remove it using either simple pruning or Missouri pruning. For simple pruning, grasp the base of the sucker between your thumb and forefinger and wiggle it until it snaps off. Don't use a knife to do this, as it can cause the spread of disease. Missouri pruning is best for suckers that have grown more than a few inches long. To prune this way, snap off the tip of the sucker, including the first two or three leaves. This won't shock the plant as much as if you removed the entire sucker.
Other pruning
If you notice diseased stems or leaves on your plant, always remove them immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Remove broken or dead plant material as you find it. Cut off leaves that are touching the soil to reduce the chance of disease or pest infestation. As the end of the growing season draws near, you'll to perform a bit more pruning. About four weeks before your first frost date, start removing any new flower clusters that appear to allow the plant to put its energy into ripening the remaining fruit. Continue pruning suckers as normal during this time.
Other considerations
Never prune your tomato plants when it's raining or they're wet, as they are more prone to disease when wet. Avoid pruning in the middle of the day to lessen stress for the plant; prune in the morning or early evening. Don't prune too many leaves, especially if you live in a hot area; some leaves are necessary to shade fruit and prevent sun scald. If you plant to support the plant with a trellis or cage, install it before you begin pruning. Support methods vary on your plant and the type of growth you want to accomplish.
Pruning your tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) generally improves the health of the plants and the quality of the fruit they produce, but not every type of tomato plant benefits from pruning. Determinate plants, for example, don't need much pruning to thrive. Combining pruning with stakes or tomato cages encourages your tomato plants to grow in an upright form that reduces the risk of disease and increases the longevity of the fruit they produce.
Disease resistance
Properly pruning your tomato plants improves their form and eliminates conditions that can promote the growth of fungal and bacterial disease. Unpruned tomato plants tend to form numerous vines that follow the ground, producing dense growth that can prevent leaves from drying. Unsupported branching vines are quickly weighed down and come in contact with the ground. Vines that are weighed down on the ground are more vulnerable to soil-borne diseases and tend to produce more side shoots, resulting in denser foliage.
Fruit quality
Limiting your tomato plants to two or three stems thins out the leaves of the plant, ensuring that all of the leaves have ample access to sunlight. Shaded leaves can yellow and drop from the plant, causing it to expend nutrients regrowing leaves instead of producing fruit. Limiting the number of growing stems on the plant through pruning also helps concentrate your tomato plant's nutrients on producing fruit. Properly pruned tomato plants typically begin producing fruit two to three weeks earlier than unpruned tomatoes and provide larger fruit.
Increased vigor
Pruning back side shoots on your tomato plants improves the structural strength of your plants. Each shoot that forms becomes increasingly weaker as the sugar the plant uses for food is spread among more stems. These weaker shoots make the plant more susceptible to injury from pests. Side shoots that form below the first cluster of flowers on the main stem reduce the vigor of the main stem of your tomato plant. Pruning these shoots when they begin to form improves the overall health and fruit production of your tomato plant.
Considerations
Indeterminate tomato plants benefit the most from pruning. This type of tomato plant grows continually throughout the year and requires regular pruning to prevent it from developing a broad branching growth habit that restricts the size of its fruit and promotes disease. The best time to prune side shoots is when they are roughly 4 inches long. Avoid using a knife to remove shoots since this can leave an open wound that leaves your plant vulnerable to infection. The best way to prune side shoots is to pinch them off with your fingers early in the day when the stems are firm.
How to prune indeterminate tomato plants?
How to prune tomato plants in containers?
How to pinch of the suckers on tomato plants?
How to prune a tomato vine?
Can indeterminate tomatoes be pruned to reduce size?
Tips for pruning tomato plants
How to prune cherry tomato plants?
Identifying suckers
When gardeners speak of pruning their tomato plants, they're typically referring to suckers. Suckers are the stems that grow between a plant's main stem and a side stem. These stems jut out at a 45-degree angle and are best removed when just starting to grow. If allowed to grow, suckers eventually develop into a new stem that can reach several feet in length. Suckers produce very little fruit, and what fruit they do make tends to be of low quality and they rob the plant of energy it needs to make large, healthy fruit.
Determinate or indeterminate
Indeterminate and determinate plants grow very differently, so they're also pruned differently. Determinate plants grow to a set size and produce a set number of stems and fruit. They don't usually need pruning and vigorous pruning will actually harm your harvest. If you must prune determinate tomato plants, only remove diseased leaves or those that touch the ground. Indeterminate plants will continue growing throughout the season until killed by frost or disease. They can produce an unlimited number of tomatoes until then. They'll also keep producing stems, although these stems generally only weaken the plant, so they must be pruned.
Removing suckers
It's best to remove suckers below a plant's first set of fruit for a strong main stem, although you can eliminate them anywhere you don't want a side stem to grow. When you see a young sucker, remove it using either simple pruning or Missouri pruning. For simple pruning, grasp the base of the sucker between your thumb and forefinger and wiggle it until it snaps off. Don't use a knife to do this, as it can cause the spread of disease. Missouri pruning is best for suckers that have grown more than a few inches long. To prune this way, snap off the tip of the sucker, including the first two or three leaves. This won't shock the plant as much as if you removed the entire sucker.
Other pruning
If you notice diseased stems or leaves on your plant, always remove them immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Remove broken or dead plant material as you find it. Cut off leaves that are touching the soil to reduce the chance of disease or pest infestation. As the end of the growing season draws near, you'll to perform a bit more pruning. About four weeks before your first frost date, start removing any new flower clusters that appear to allow the plant to put its energy into ripening the remaining fruit. Continue pruning suckers as normal during this time.
Other considerations
Never prune your tomato plants when it's raining or they're wet, as they are more prone to disease when wet. Avoid pruning in the middle of the day to lessen stress for the plant; prune in the morning or early evening. Don't prune too many leaves, especially if you live in a hot area; some leaves are necessary to shade fruit and prevent sun scald. If you plant to support the plant with a trellis or cage, install it before you begin pruning. Support methods vary on your plant and the type of growth you want to accomplish.
Benefits of pruning
Properly pruning your tomato plants improves their form and eliminates conditions that can promote the growth of fungal and bacterial disease. Unpruned tomato plants tend to form numerous vines that follow the ground, producing dense growth that can prevent leaves from drying. Unsupported branching vines are quickly weighed down and come in contact with the ground. Vines that are weighed down on the ground are more vulnerable to soil-borne diseases and tend to produce more side shoots, resulting in denser foliage.
Fruit quality
Limiting your tomato plants to two or three stems thins out the leaves of the plant, ensuring that all of the leaves have ample access to sunlight. Shaded leaves can yellow and drop from the plant, causing it to expend nutrients regrowing leaves instead of producing fruit. Limiting the number of growing stems on the plant through pruning also helps concentrate your tomato plant's nutrients on producing fruit. Properly pruned tomato plants typically begin producing fruit two to three weeks earlier than unpruned tomatoes and provide larger fruit.
Increased vigor
Pruning back side shoots on your tomato plants improves the structural strength of your plants. Each shoot that forms becomes increasingly weaker as the sugar the plant uses for food is spread among more stems. These weaker shoots make the plant more susceptible to injury from pests. Side shoots that form below the first cluster of flowers on the main stem reduce the vigor of the main stem of your tomato plant. Pruning these shoots when they begin to form improves the overall health and fruit production of your tomato plant.
Considerations
Indeterminate tomato plants benefit the most from pruning. This type of tomato plant grows continually throughout the year and requires regular pruning to prevent it from developing a broad branching growth habit that restricts the size of its fruit and promotes disease. The best time to prune side shoots is when they are roughly 4 inches long. Avoid using a knife to remove shoots since this can leave an open wound that leaves your plant vulnerable to infection. The best way to prune side shoots is to pinch them off with your fingers early in the day when the stems are firm.
More tips and advice on pruning tomato plants
How to prune indeterminate tomato plants?
How to prune tomato plants in containers?
How to pinch of the suckers on tomato plants?
How to prune a tomato vine?
Can indeterminate tomatoes be pruned to reduce size?
Tips for pruning tomato plants
How to prune cherry tomato plants?
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