How to label and grow tomatoes from seed?

If you've ever neglected to label a tray of seeds, or mixed them, you understand the frustration of not knowing what will come up when.

When you grow tomatoes from seed it's easy to jumble varieties.

If you are growing other vegetables from seed, too, then you might have some real confusion on your hands.

Are those germinating seedlings tomatoes, bell peppers, squash, cucumbers, eggplant, or a mystery vegetable?

Not only are there good reasons to label your tomato seedling trays, but it's really easy to do ... once you have a system.

Why label planted tomato seeds?

• To know what you've got. Mark tomato varieties so you can plant them your pre-chosen spots in the garden, especially when you've started more than one or two varieties. Unmarked plants have less of a chance for success in the garden or on the patio.
• To care for what you've got. Mark tomatoes to increase the likelihood that you’ll care for each variety as it needs. Heirloom tomatoes, for instance, can be more susceptible to diseases and need extra monitoring.
• To track performance. Find out what varieties work best in your garden. Use your notes about starting dates, germination, hardening off and planting in the garden to maximize decisions in coming seasons.

How to label tomato seeds in trays

What to use
Make free or inexpensive labels from popsicle sticks, plastic sticks cut from used yogurt containers, masking tape, ½” strips cut from aluminum pie pans, or write on the pots themselves (as in the case of plastic or paper cups or recycled cartons).

Best marking tools
What’s the point in labeling your tomatoes if markings get rubbed off when you handle the pots or rinsed off when you water the plants? Then, mid-summer you wonder which tomato varieties are which, creating all kinds of confusion. Use markers that are long-lasting, like industrial-strength paint markers identified as “non-fading,” marking pens created especially for garden labeling, or Sharpie® Industrial pens (regular Sharpies® have been known to fade in 4-6 weeks).

Tagging tips

• Insert popsicle stick, plastic stick or aluminum strip into the soil. You’ll be able to reuse them when you set plants out into the garden. Or attach masking tape to pot or write name directly on pot. If you use aluminum strips cut from recycled pie plates, use a sharp pointed object to inscribe name in the metal.
• When sowing seeds in a flat, mark the entire flat. Figure out a way to show which section of the flat is which variety.
• When you move each plant into its own pot, mark it.
• Make sure labels surfaces are dry when you mark them.

Taking notes
Do it. You’ll be glad you did. Use a small notebook or even a loose sheet of paper. Record the following information:

• tomato variety
• planting date
• germination date
• date first true set of leaves appear
• transplanting date
• special plant strengthening tips
• feeding
• hardening off dates and exposure
• planting date
• flowering date
• first pick
• last pick
• pests
• diseases

Tomato growing tips for seeds

These tomato growing tips will help you start tomato plants from seeds and grow healthy tomato seedlings. When it comes to starting tomatoes from seeds, you have two responsibilities:

• Take care of seeds so they germinate
• Keep emerged seedlings healthy until they’re ready to set out in the garden

5 tomato growing tips for germination

Your biggest challenge in getting seeds to germinate is to create the best circumstances possible to help them along. That means eliminating any variables that inhibit sprouting. Use these tomato growing tips to maximize your germination conditions.

Choose your germination spot wisely

New growers may be tempted to start seedlings in a cool, damp basement or drafty upstairs room. Even with growing lights, these environments are not your best bet. Humidity and low temps are the perfect breeding ground for fungi and bacteria – particularly the fungi responsible for damping off. Inadequate heat and drafts can slow germination. Pick a spot to start your seeds that has balanced humidity and good air circulation.

Start clean

Use quality, sterile potting mix to start your seedlings. Garden soil is packed with bacteria and fungi that prey on tomato seeds and seedlings. Don’t use it. While choosing a potting mix, select one with a neutral pH. Acid soils are ideal for fungus growth – something you want to avoid. Make sure containers are clean. It’s OK if they’re used. Just wash them thoroughly and sterilize them before filling them with potting mix.

Plant sparingly

Sow just one or two seeds per cell to give them breathing room to sprout.

Sprinkle soil surfaces

Spread a thin layer of sand, perlite, or sphagnum peat moss on the surface of the soil to discourage fungi and bacteria. Sand and perlite keep the stems dry at the soil surface where damping off occurs. Peat moss has anti-bacterial qualities.

Check labels

Wooden popsicle sticks are easily infected. When used to label tomato seedlings, they are susceptible to bacteria and fungus. Discourage the spread of disease by using plastic labeling sticks.

Tomato growing tips for seedlings

Once seedlings emerge, the biggest challenge is disease – primarily fungal problems related to damping off. Affected seedlings looked pinched, flop over, wither, or appear cut off at the soil surface. Most die quickly. Once the fungus has taken hold, it is usually quick-spreading and fatal. Damping off often impacts an entire flat. Use these tomato growing tips to prevent damping off and other diseases in your new tomato seedlings.

Thin seedlings

When seedlings are crowded, stems and leaves don’t dry quickly. They retain moisture and promote humid conditions – the perfect environment for nasty germs to thrive and attack plants. When seedlings emerge, let the strongest one grow. Pluck out extras with your fingers or tweezers.

Keep air moving

Humid, stagnant air creates an ideal environment for fungi and bacteria to flourish. When starting seedlings, prop the top of the seed-starting tray up a few inches to allow air to flow. Or punch holes in the plastic cover. Once seedlings emerge, place an electric fan near the tray and set it on a gentle breeze. Air circulation discourages bacteria and fungi.

Don’t overwater

Too much water fills the air pockets in potting soil and chokes new roots.

Water from below

Wet foliage encourages bacteria and fungi. Do everything you can to prevent stems and leaves from getting wet. Once seedlings emerge, stop misting soil surface. Instead, pour water into the seedling tray. Let plants absorb water. Watering from below strengthens a tomato plant’s root system, too.

Monitor surfaces

When white mold or other fluffy growth appears on plants, markers, pots, or the soil surface, separate those containers from the rest of your crop. This way you have a chance to protect unaffected plants. Meanwhile, destroy infected plants. Do not reuse the affected potting mix. Disinfect containers with a bleach solution before replanting new seeds.

Seed starting mix for tomatoes: what ingredients are important

The best seed starting mix for tomatoes has four qualities:

• It is sterile
• It absorbs moisture
• It drains well
• It retains moisture

The most common base ingredients in commercial mixes are sphagnum peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and lime. Another potting mix ingredient that is growing in popularity is coco coir (also called coconut coir, potting coir, or simply coir.) A seed starting mix with these ingredients is often labeled as “soil-less.” In the truest sense, these ingredients contain no soil or dirt and are considered to be sterile. They are not jam-packed with living organisms. Garden soil, on the other hand, is filled with organic matter and is home to active bacteria and fungi. That means if you grow tomato seeds in garden soil, they’re much more susceptible to the dreaded damping-off disease that kills so many seedlings.

Sphagnum peat moss

Most sterile commercial seed starting mixes are peat-based with added ingredients for aeration.

Peat is partially decomposed organic matter. It has been compressed in low-lying ground where water sits, containing hardly any oxygen. That slows decay, leading to partially-carbonized composites. The resulting material, peat moss, is organic and acidic. Its acidity inhibits bacteria and fungi – a plus for new plants. When dry it forms a water-repellent crust.

Specifically, sphagnum peat moss is derived from sphagnum moss and considered to be a high quality peat. It is the most preferred type of peat for horticultural purposes. Sphagnum peat can hold up to 20 times its dry weight in water. Its ability to absorb water helps keep new seedlings moist. But sphagnum peat moss works best for seed starting when combined with other ingredients to retain water (not just absorb it), loosen the mixture, and give roots some breathing room.

Perlite

Perlite, a form of volcanic glass, is a mined material. Its strength is aeration. Perlite allows a seed starting mix or potting mix to have tiny air pockets and keep the mixture drained. This prevents overwatering that can easily lead to drowning for new seedlings and plants grown in containers. Perlite is also very inexpensive. Its biggest drawback is also its strength: it doesn't retain water well, which means it dries out quickly. That’s why it’s most useful when combined with ingredients that hold moisture, like sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite. Use a dust mask when handling dry perlite since it can easily be inhaled.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a naturally-occurring, shiny, flaked mineral that resembles mica. It retains moisture well (about 200% - 300% by weight). It’s also inexpensive. Vermiculite’s water-retentive properties allow it to easily distribute nutrients to plants. The major drawback of vermiculite is that it retains too much water if used solely on its own and can suffocate the roots of plants. It’s most effective if used in combination with other ingredients. Use a dust mask when handling dry vermiculite since it can easily be inhaled.

Coco coir

Coco coir is coconut husk residue. Gardeners are excited about coco coir (pronounced “kwaher”) because it drains well and needs less watering than most potting mixes. Another significant advantage to coir is that it is a renewable resource. Coco is a by-product of the coconut-processing industry. As coconuts are grown and harvested, more coco coir is produced.

Why these four ingredients complement each other

Sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, and coir complement each other well in a seed starting mix. Sphagnum peat absorbs water. Perlite allows adequate drainage, which lets roots have plenty of oxygen. Vermiculite retains moisture so that plants don’t dry out but have access to nutrients. Coir retains moisture, offers good drainage, doesn't compact, and is a renewable resource.

Well-balanced, prepared mixes such as Natural Beginnings Seed-Starting Mix and Eco-Co Coir combine these ingredients.

Fertilizer

Most seed starting mixes contain trace nutrients at most. There’s little need for added nutrients at this early stage because a plant’s initial nourishment is already packed inside the seed itself. But once seedlings have two sets of true leaves, it’s time to feed them a bit. You can add a bit of compost when you transplant tomato seedlings to their next size container or include a small amount of water-soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle Gro for tomatoes) in your moistening regimen.

Check for lime

If you select a peat-based seed starting mix, check the label. Make sure it contains a little lime to reduce the acidity and create a balanced combination – or add a dash on your own – because sphagnum peat moss is acidic.

What potting mix to use when starting tomato seeds?

Potting mix’s main jobs are to –

• Get the seeds to sprout
• Keep them disease-free until they have 2 sets of leaves.

Tomato seeds simply need light, soil, moisture, and protection from disease in order to germinate. A good mix helps make those things possible.

Your best choice when growing tomatoes from seeds: sterile potting mix. You can purchase a commercially-prepared sterile seed starting mix or make your own.

How to choose a seed starting mix?

Commercially-prepared starting mixes vary in composition.

Make sure you select a potting mix, not potting soil (which is heavier).

Choose a mix that is lightweight, holds water, and is light on fertilizer. You don’t want your tomato seedlings to get too overfed while they still can get nutrients from the seed.

Commonly-used mixes are –

• Hyponex potting mix: peat, compost, sand, perlite
• Jiffy Mix: peat moss, perlite
• Pro-Mix: peat-based with bio-fungicide
• MetroMix: peat, vermiculite, sand, light fertilizer
• Fafard: sphagnum peat, perlite, compost
• Coco coir-based mix

How to make your own seed starting mix

Pick a recipe and combine ingredients in a large sterile tray, pot, or bucket.

• Easy seed starter mix: 1 part sphagnum peat, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite (parts by volume, not weight)
• Cornell University seed starter mix: 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite (parts by volume, not weight), 1 teaspoon lime, 1 teaspoon 0-20-0 fertilizer, 2 teaspoons 19-6-12 fertilizer (slow release)

Why not use garden soil?

Garden soil is not sterile. Try to avoid using it if possible because it’s full of weed seeds, it compacts (preventing good circulation), and worst of all – it contains nasty disease-carrying organisms, bacteria, and fungi, which have a bad reputation for causing damping-off disease.

If you must use garden soil, sterilize it before planting. Place soil in a shallow pan. Bake at 180°F for 45 minutes. Make sure soil reaches 180°F so all the nasties are zapped. But don’t overcook, or you’ll release toxins in the soil.

What to do after choosing a starting mix

Whichever potting mix you use, make sure you moisten it well. Add warm water and stir with a sterile trowel or large wooden spoon until the mixture is evenly damp, like a wrung-out sponge. Press it lightly into your seed starting containers.

Keep extra sphagnum peat moss on hand when growing tomatoes from seeds and sprinkle it on top of your prepared seed cell trays. Its anti-fungal properties are helpful in keeping seeds and seedlings disease-free.

Tomato seed starting basics

When it comes to growing tomatoes, you’ve got three choices:

• grow tomatoes from seeds indoors while it’s still cold outside
• grow tomato plants in a greenhouse or cold frame
• buy tomato plants from a nursery or garden center once the weather is warm enough 

Growing tomatoes from seeds is easy. It just takes planning and a bit of stick-to-it-ive-ness. You’ll soon find out that you can grow tomatoes yourself for a lot less and they taste much better than what you find in the grocery store.

Best reasons to grow tomatoes from seeds

Longer season. Start seeds sooner, seedlings germinate sooner, voila – plants produce tomatoes sooner and longer. That’s especially helpful if your growing season is short say, in the north. Cool spring temperatures slow germination or can kill young seedlings. An early fall frost can zap mature tomato plants. When you get a head start indoors, you max out production and get an extended tomato harvest.

Cheaper plants. You can save money by starting your tomatoes from seed if you like to grow lots of tomatoes or if you like to try different varieties. You can also save money by making your own planting mix. You won’t save money if you buy designer starter mix or use top-of-the-line seed starter trays. Bonus money saver: when you start tomatoes from seed, you get stronger tomato plants for less.

More variety. There are more than thousands of varieties of tomatoes. It’s fun to try to new kinds!

A cure for winter. A few weeks after the new year, my fingers are itching to dig in the dirt. Starting tomato seeds indoors takes the edge off.

Seed starting step-by-step

Plan ahead for successful seed starting
The first step you need to take to successfully grow a tomato plant from start to finish is to choose your tomato seeds. Take time to find out about different tomato varieties. Experienced gardeners order seeds from garden catalogs as early as December for the following spring. You can also find seeds online at seed exchange sites or from other avid gardeners. Nurseries and home improvement centers sell seeds, too.
Start tomato seeds 6-8 weeks before planting time
Check your local frost dates. Start tomato seeds about 6 weeks before it’s safe to set out plants in the garden.

Plant tomato seeds: easy steps to take
Get the scoop and simple step-by-step instructions that explain how to --

• choose containers for seed starting
• what potting mix to use
• how to plant your seeds
• label your newly-planted seeds (especially if you’re growing different varieties)

What to look for after seeds are planted
Your tomato seedlings will emerge in 5-10 days. You’re now in the “stick-to-it-ive-ness” period of seed starting. For the next month, you’ll need to check your new seedlings daily. Mist or water them regularly. Once they have 2 sets of leaves, re-pot them in 4-6" transplant pots to help them build strong root systems. Monitor them carefully to check for the biggest seed-starting problems, like tomato fungus, legginess, slow growth, and seed rot.

Prepare for next year
As you harvest your tomato crop, save some seeds for next year. Have extras on hand to share with gardening friends. You might even inspire someone you know to give seed starting a try!

Compare seed starting kits for growing tomatoes

Seed starting kits offer an excellent value if you want to grow your own tomato plants from seeds. By purchasing a kit, you save money over the price of buying individual components.

And kits are convenient. In one package, you get all you need to start tomato seeds. Beginners, in particular, are drawn to kits because using them makes starting tomato seeds much less intimidating.

Seed starting kits come with trays that have different numbers of cells. You can choose a kit offering the number of cells that meets your needs. If you want to start only a few plants, buy a kit with a smaller number of cells. If you’re interested in growing large numbers of tomatoes, as do commercial growers, you can use 128-cell trays. And seed starting kits come with all different numbers of cells in between.

Durability is another advantage. If you buy a quality kit to start with, you can re-use it each year when you start your tomato seeds.

What features to look for in seed starting kits

There are lots of kits out there. Consider two especially important features as you choose yours: the kit’s planting tray system and its cell size.

1. Planting tray system. The traditional kit offers a planting cell tray and a reservoir tray. The planting cell tray is made up of individual units, or cells, that will accommodate individual seedlings. Each cell has holes in the bottom for drainage. The planting tray is set inside a reservoir tray, which captures moisture that seeps through the holes after watering. Traditional seed cell trays are offered by Gardener's Supply, Burpee, and other gardening vendors online (look at a range of seed cell trays.)

Traditional kits also have developed extra features. Burpee's 25 Cell Netted Greenhouse, while not self-watering, uses netted cells to give roots enough circulation.

Newer kit styles offer a self-watering system. These prevent potting mix from drying out – a key factor in tomato seed starting success. Like traditional seed cell trays, self-watering systems have a cell tray and a reservoir tray. What makes them different is their self-watering system, set up to wick water from the reservoir tray up through the planting cells. Planting cells rest on a hydration mat (and in some cases, an additional pegboard) on top of the reservoir tray. The hydration mat’s edges sits in the tray's water, wicking up enough moisture to keep the seed starting mix damp. This allows the planting medium to stay moist for about five days. Both APS Seed-starting System from Gardener’s Supply and Burpee’s Ultimate Growing System use self-watering systems.

2. Size. Tomatoes are fast-growing. They outgrow small planting cells quickly. It’s a good idea to use trays with the biggest cells possible. The larger the individual cell (2-4 inches in diameter), the more opportunity for each seedling to spread its root systems without having to be disturbed and re-potted. Seedlings grown in very large cells (3-4 inches wide) often do not need to be re-potted at all before being set out in the garden. Keep in mind that the larger the cell, the fewer cells a tray holds – meaning trays with large cells will accommodate fewer plants.

(But starting tomato seedlings in 1- or 1 ½-inch cells is not a recipe for gardening disaster. Once seedlings have two sets of seedlings, they can be successfully re-potted to larger containers and can grow excellent root systems.)

When it comes cell depth, deeper is better, too. Deep cells encourage tomato roots to reach down into the water reservoir, whether it’s a traditional tray set up or a self-watering system. That means root systems grow stronger, which is always better for tomato seedlings.

Additional features to consider in seed starting kits

Planting medium. A sterile, soil-less growing medium prevents diseases and damping off. Kits from Gardener’s Supply include GS Professional Germinating Mix, a finely textured, pH-adjusted sterile blend of sphagnum peat and vermiculite.

Coconut coir, a natural fiber extracted from coconut husks, is quickly becoming a popular seed starting medium. The fibers allow for good root aeration.

Greenhouse cover. Some kits come with a clear plastic lid, which acts like a greenhouse cover. It holds in humidity during the early stages of germination and growing. The cover is a helpful option. It gives seeds the opportunity to germinate more quickly. Once seedlings grow large enough to touch the greenhouse lid, you can leave it off.

Nice extras in seed starting kits

Plant fertilizer. As tomato seedlings emerge, they don’t need extra nutrients because they’re getting nutrients from the seed itself. After about three weeks to a month, they can be fertilized with a reduced-concentration solution. An extra fertilizer packet that comes with a kit is a nice add-on, but it’s not a deal-maker when choosing a kit. The Burpee kits comes with a one pack of organic fertilizer. Gardener’s Supply kits also provide a small, 2.5 oz. of plant health care nutrient supplement.

Plant labels. Another “nice to have but not completely necessary feature.” Gardener’s Supply gives you 24 wooden markers. Burpee’s provides three.

Tray material. Some are made of plastic; others are made from biodegradable resin, which will break down in a landfill or, eventually, in a compost heap. (Don’t’ confuse biodegradable resin with individual seed starting pots made from peat, plant fiber, coir, or paper that break down when you plant them in the garden.)

Heat mat. A heating pad placed underneath seed starting trays, as offered by Hydrofarm Germination Station, helps seeds germinate quicker. It’s helpful to use a seedling heat mat no matter what seed starting system you choose.

Seed starting containers to use when you sow tomatoes

Seed starting containers need to be sterile and have good drainage.
Their three main jobs are to:

1. Be home to your seedlings while they germinate
2. Keep away diseases
3. Help tomato sprouts grow 2 sets of leaves

Top seed starting container tips

• Start seeds in individual containers rather than open flats. If you start tomato seeds in open flats, you’ll need to split plants after they germinate and separate their root systems, which stresses new tomato seedlings. Transplanting is much easier when each sprout is contained in its own cell or cup. Seed cell trays are ideal and can be re-used year to year.
• Calculate volume. If you’re starting a lot of tomatoes (and other crops), use flats with individual cells to accommodate large numbers of plants.
• Set your containers in a tray, plastic box, or rimmed cookie sheetfor balance and good drainage. A tray also lets you water from the bottom. That helps your seedlings produce strong root systems. Roots will need to reach down into the growing medium for water.
• Sterilize plastic containers that you re-use from last year in a 5-10% bleach solution. You’ll help keep nasty bacteria and fungi away.
• Go simple and cheap. There’s no need to go fancy with starting containers. Use something clean with good drainage. Remember to poke holes.

Any small container works!

• Try Styrofoam or plastic cups – gardener’s favorites. Poke holes in the bottom for drainage.
• Recycle yogurt containers, milk cartons, margarine tubs, plastic jugs, egg cartons, or soda bottles. Wash thoroughly and poke holes in the bottom.
• Purchase seed-growing flats with individual cells, also known as seed cell trays. They're re-usable from year to year.
• Buy individual peat pots or peat pellets. You can transplant them into the next size pot or directly right in the ground.
• Make your own! Cut newspaper strips 12” by 6”. Wrap several strips lengthwise around a soda can (or similar-sized aluminum can) – 4” up sides, 2” across the bottom – and press tightly. Remove the can. Poof! – you’ve got a tomato pot. Or use a nifty pot maker to make strips of ordinary newspaper into biodegradable seed starting pots. Before you pack pots close together in a tray for support, make sure you poke holes in the bottom.

Compare biodegradable tomato seed starting pots to use to grow tomato seeds

There are several different types of biodegradable seed starting pots to use when you grow tomatoes from seeds. Their distinct advantage is convenience. Seeds are sown directly into potting mix inside the pot. There they grow until it’s time to harden them off and place them in the garden. At planting time, there’s no need to remove the seedling from its container. Tomato seedlings move straight to the garden, rather than being pulled from one “home” and stuffed into another during a normal repotting process. This saves mess (for you) and reduces transplant shock (for the plant).

In addition, biodegradable pots can improve your soil. After you plant a seedling, the pot’s organic material itself breaks down in the soil over the course of the season. Plus, biodegradable pots don’t need to be stored, cleaned, or disinfected every year.

Biodegradable pots are environmentally-friendly and an all-natural approach to starting tomato seeds. Because they are constructed from natural materials, they can be more susceptible to mold. Good circulation and light keeps pots healthy.

One consideration to remember, though, is that these seed starting pots must be replaced every year.

All in all, biodegradable seed starting pots are a terrific option to use when you grow tomatoes from seeds. Read on to compare different kinds to decide which is right for you.

Fiber pots (or peat pots)

Fiber pots, also called “peat pots,” are the most commonly-recognizable of biodegradable seed starting containers. They made of wood fiber and peat (hence their name). Roots easily grow through the fiber pots and soft-walled peat – both while they are developing seedlings and later, when set in the garden. Fiber pots come in all sizes, shapes, and styles. They are also available in a wide variety of quantities, which is useful if you are a hobbyist who simply wants to start a few tomato seedlings or if you want to grow hundreds of tomato plants.

Cowpots

Cowpots, a fairly new product, are made from dried, composted manure combined with natural fibers. The mixture is pressed into forms that produce natural and biodegradable seed starting pots. Cowpots have an additional advantage over traditional fiber pots. Not only do their natural fibers break down in the soil, but the dried compost also adds nutrients. Cowpots are 100% organic … a plus for organic gardeners and certainly an important feature to the Connecticut dairy farmers who developed them.

Paper Pots

There are several reasons paper pots are the preferred for tomato seed starting by many gardeners. Probably most important, paper pots are cheap. They are an economical way to grow large numbers of transplants. The pots come as one interconnected paper constructed in a large honeycomb design; units transform into individual pots when you carefully moisten the honeycomb (or a portion of it) and fill each section with potting mix. They can then be separated. They’re closely packed to save space and reduce moisture loss.

And of course, paper pots are biodegradable. You transplant pot and all right into the garden where the paper breaks down and roots spread.

Paper pots are bottomless – constructed that way on purpose to air-prune roots into dense, healthy root balls. They must be placed in a planting tray or plastic box and watered from below. Some consider this feature a plus in terms of flexibility: one set of paper pots can be separated into several different trays to grow different crops. Others view it as a nuisance. You can decide if it works for your situation.

Tomato seed starting timetable

Here are some general rules to follow in North America (according to hardiness zones outlined by the United States Department of Agriculture) about when to start your tomato seeds. This seed starting timetable allows 8 weeks for seeds to germinate, grow at least two sets of leaves (or more), reach transplant size, and harden off before setting in the garden.

Zones 9 & 10: Start seeds indoors in early to mid January
Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in early February
Zone 7: Start seeds indoors in mid February
Zone 6: Start seeds indoors in late February
Zone 5: Start seeds indoors in early March
Zones 1-4: Start seeds indoors in mid to late March

What’s a “plant hardiness zone”?

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 separate zones, called “plant hardiness zones.” Each zone is 10°F warmer (or colder) in an average winter than the adjacent zone. The map was developed to provide climate information important to horticulture. Most gardeners in North America rely on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map as they plan gardens and choose plants.

Gardeners in other parts of the world use plant hardiness zone maps that follow the USDA model but are modified for their particular climate. For example, Africa’s map is divided into 13 hardiness zones. Australia’s temperatures are mild across the continent; its hardiness zone map is divided into just 5 zones and noted in metric units.

Tomato seed starting timetable at a glance

When to sow tomato seeds indoors
6-8 weeks before last freeze date

When to transplant tomato seedlings to the garden
1 to 2 weeks after last spring frost

When to sow tomato seeds outdoors
After last spring frost (if your season is long)

Other tomato seed sowing details

Germination time: 6-14 days, depending on variety
Germination temperature: 70-85º F
Sowing depth: 1/4 inch
Days to maturity: 53-90 days from transplant, depending on variety

Tomato seeds: when to start them in your area

Start tomato seeds indoors or in a greenhouse before planting season. When spring comes, seedlings will be ready to plant outdoors. Plus you'll grow a more successful crop than if you sow them directly in the garden.

What's the best seed starting date?
Start too early and your plants will outgrow their pots quickly and become leggy, root-bound, and weak. They’ll spend their first weeks in the garden regaining strength, rather than producing new leaf growth and flowers.

Start your seeds late and you can have a delayed crop.

By mid-winter, most gardeners are itching to get growing. Have patience to not start too early.

Start dates differ from region to region
Timing your tomato seed starting is not a one-size-fits-all. Much depends on your climate.

How to know when to start tomato seeds
Try these 2 easy steps to calculate the best time to start your seeds where you live.

• Determine the last frost date for your region. If you’re not sure, contact your local extension office. You can also view the freeze/frost information provided by the National Climatic Data Center. Select your state from the drop-down list. On the opened chart, choose the city closest to you. You’ll see the average last frost dates for spring (and first frost for fall) dates – among plenty of other data.
• Count back 4-6 weeks from the last frost date for your region to know when to start your tomatoes.

Plant your tomato seedlings outdoors 1-2 weeks after the last frost date
Waiting longer to plant after the last frost date will reduce the chance of losing your tomato crop to freeze and will allow the ground to warm – which is the kind of environment in which tomatoes do best!

How to germinate tomato seeds before sowing them indoors?

Germinate seeds before you sow them in potting mix. Pre-sprouting helps accelerate your tomato seedling crop. Pre-sprouting is easy. It takes just a couple of days.

When you germinate tomato seeds before planting them, they have a greater chance of growing into seedlings than those you sow directly.  You’ll give your seeds a jump start on the growing season.

Plus, you’ll get more plants from the same amount of seeds that you sow directly into your indoor pots.

What you need

• tomato seeds
• paper towel or paper napkin
• ziploc sandwich bags
• marker to label bags
• water
• seedling heat mat

What to do

• Moisten a single paper towel sheet or paper napkin. Paper should be damp but not sopping wet.
• Sprinkle tomato seeds on paper towel so they are not touching. Seeds will adhere to paper. Use only one variety of tomato seed per 
• roll. If you’d like to pre-sprout just a few seeds of one variety, tear the paper towel into smaller sections.
• Starting at one end, roll the paper towel or napkin loosely in cylinder-fashion.
• Place the rolled paper towel into a zipped plastic bag.
• Label the bag with tomato variety and date.
• Place bag in a warm place away from drafts, such as on the top of the refrigerator or stereo. Or use a seedling heat mat.
• Check the seeds a couple of times each day for germination. Carefully unroll the paper cylinder and look for the root emerging from the seed. Some seeds germinate within 24-48 hours. Other varieties, especially smaller varieties and those suited to grow in containers, take longer to sprout – as much as 10-14 days.
• As soon as the seed’s tap root emerges, plant your germinated seeds.

Plant your germinated seeds in seed cell trays within 12-24 hours of sprouting. Be careful to not allow the seed’s root to grow too long while still in the paper towel, or the root will penetrate the paper and be difficult to manipulate without breakage. Once the root is broken, your seed will no longer be viable.

Can I germinate old tomato seeds?

Can old seeds wake up?

Yes, if tomato seeds are appropriately fermented, dried, and stored, they can last up to 10 years with a germination rate of 50%. If used within 4-7 years, the germination rate will be even better. Heirloom tomato pioneer Carolyn Male has re-awakened 22-year-old tomato seeds. The documented record of rejuvenation is 50 years.

Try these methods to germinate old tomato seeds

Gardeners have successfully used different methods to get stubborn or old tomato seeds to sprout. Pre-soaking is one of the most effective means.

Pre-soaking methods to help old seeds germinate
You can pre-soak old seeds in a glass of water. When pre-soaking seeds, make sure to stir the mixture occasionally so that viable seeds sink to the bottom of the container. Bad seeds will float to the top. Experiment with these combinations.

• Pre-soak seeds in lukewarm water overnight (12-18 hours).
• Pre-soak seeds in plain water with a dash of water-soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro, fish emulsion, or liquid seaweed (12-18 hours). Nitrogen in the fertilizer helps germination.
• Pre-soak seeds in a mild tea solution overnight (12-18 hours).

Tips for planting and growing old seeds

• Double sow.
• Moisten the seed starter mix with lightly-fertilized water before planting.
• Prepare seed mix with just the right amount of moisture. Too much water can rot seeds.
• Plant the seed very shallow, no more than 1/8 inch deep (about twice the thickness of the seed).
• Try covering the seeds with sand.
• Cover the seed tray in plastic wrap or enclosed in a plastic bag to keep humidity high.
• Keep the starter mix consistently and evenly moist.
• Provide bottom heat with a seed starting pad or heating pad set at 75º-80 ºF.
• Keep room temperature consistent. Avoid drafts.
• After 2-3 days, begin checking seeds daily to see if they have sprouted.
• Be patient. Old tomato seeds can take awhile to sprout – up to 6 weeks.

Why old tomato seeds may not germinate

If old seeds don’t germinate, perhaps they were not properly fermented or may have been dampened, which can reduce or obliterate their viability. Some varieties, such as oxhearts, have a shorter seed viability rate. If you save your own tomato seeds, use reliable methods to ensure best future germination.

Liquid fertilizer vs. dry fertilizer for potted plants

Plants need nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to grow and bloom. Potted plants grow in a limited amount of soil and use soil nutrients more quickly than plants that grow in the ground. Commercially prepared potting media often contain fertilizer that supplies nutrients up to three weeks after planting. You can replenish depleted nutrients with liquid or dry fertilizers. The fertilizer “N-P-K” label will state the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

Liquid fertilizer
Commercially available liquid fertilizers are liquid concentrates or powders that you dissolve in water before you apply them to the soil. These fertilizers usually contain a dye so that you can identify the mixture. This type of fertilizer quickly leaches out of the soil with water, so you may have to apply it as often as every two weeks. Herbaceous potted plants generally benefit from a complete liquid houseplant fertilizer such as 20-20-20, 10-8-7 or similar ratio, notes the University of Connecticut Cooperative Extension.

Dry fertilizer
Dry fertilizers are available as granules or slow-release pellets or beads. Granular garden fertilizer works well for potted shrubs or trees, according to the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. Water carries the dry fertilizer from the soil surface into the root zone. Slow-release fertilizers release small amounts of water-soluble fertilizer from a resin coat with every watering. These pellets or beads supply nutrients for three to nine months, depending on the product.

Mixing and application
You can sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of granular garden fertilizer per gallon of potting soil, according to the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. For example, potted trees and shrubs generally benefit from three applications of 10-10-10 or 12-4-8 fertilizer from early spring to midsummer. Water your plant immediately after you add granular fertilizer. If you use slow-release pellets, sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the pellets per gallon of soil in the spring. Water plants with a mixture of 1 1/2 teaspoons of liquid fertilizer diluted in a gallon of water, and repeat every two or three weeks.

Considerations
Dry fertilizers do not leach from the soil as quickly as liquid fertilizers and can build up and form a white crust on the soil. Plants may wilt or develop brown leaf margins or burned roots when they receive too much fertilizer. You should run water equal to twice the amount of soil in the container every four to six months to remove fertilizer salt buildup, according to the North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. During winter dormancy, you should fertilize potted plants only two or three times.

Is vinegar good for tomato plants?

Tomatoes are the most commonly grown vegetable in home gardens in America, according to the University of Illinois. Because tomatoes are naturally acidic, vinegar can be used as a natural fungicide as well as a fertilizer on these tasty and nutritious plants.

Function
Vinegar is a natural substance that has a wide variety of uses. It is acidic, but not toxic, which means it is safe to consume. For that reason, it can be used on edible as well as non-edible plants without harming them, as long as it is used in moderation and diluted with water.

Fungicide
Tomatoes are prone to fungal diseases, especially during periods of wet spring weather. A combination of apple cider vinegar and water can prevent and treat leaf spots fungi, mildews and scab diseases. Combine 3 tbsp. of cider vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Put the solution into a spray bottle and spray your tomato plants every morning.

Fertilizer
Fertilize your tomatoes with a mixture of water, ammonia and vinegar. Combine 1 cup ammonia with 2 cups of white distilled vinegar, then add it to 5 gallons of water. Use a watering can to sprinkle this mixture over your tomato plants and the surrounding soil. Do this about once every two weeks in the spring. This will encourage fruiting.

When to fertilize a tomato plant?

Tomatoes remain productive from midsummer until fall frost if they are supplied with the nutrients they need to grow healthy and produce fruits. While special tomato fertilizers are on the market, they are rarely necessary. A general-purpose fertilizer applied regularly in the proper amounts is all that's needed to feed your tomato plants.

Soil testing
Each garden bed provides different nutrients and soil quality. When possible, perform a soil test to verify the nutrient quality in your garden. Soil test kits are available at most garden centers and require of taking a soil sample from the garden. The kit tests the soil pH, which should be between 5.8 and 6.5 for tomatoes. Kits may also test the amount of certain nutrients, such as phosphorous, already present in the soil. Use the information from the kit to determine what fertilizers and amendments are needed prior to planting your tomatoes.

Amendments
Most beds need agricultural lime added to bring the soil pH into the optimum range. Add the lime at the rate recommended on the soil test. If you didn't perform a test, apply 3/4 cup of lime to the bed for each tomato seedling you are planting. Also add 1/2 cup of 8-8-8 analysis fertilizer for each plant. The numbers indicate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer. Compost helps improve the quality of the soil by adding organic matter and nutrients to the bed. Work in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost before you plant. In heavy clay soils or in sandy beds, a thick compost layer helps ensure proper water drainage and moisture retention.

Starter fertilizer
Apply a starter fertilizer after planting the seedlings. A starter solution gives the plants quick access to the nutrients they need to begin forming healthy roots and establishing in the bed. Dissolve 1 lb. of 8-8-8 fertilizer in a gallon of water. Water each plant with one cup of the solution at planting. Commercial starter fertilizers are also available. Mix and apply these as detailed on the label.

Mid-season fertilizer
Begin mid-season fertilization once the fruits begin to form on the tomato plants. Reapply the fertilizer every four to six weeks until the end of the growing season in fall to ensure the plants remain productive. Use 2 tbsp. of 8-8-8 fertilizer per plant. Do not apply the fertilizer so it touches the tomato's stem or roots, as direct contact with undissolved fertilizer can burn plants. Instead, side dress the plants with the fertilizer. Work the fertilizer into the soil about 6-inches away from the plant stems. In row plantings, apply the fertilizer between the rows.

How often should you fertilize tomato plants?

Tomatoes are easy to grow and work well in yards with large garden areas or in containers on small patios or balconies. To get the biggest tomato yield, start fertilizing before you plant and periodically during the growing cycle. Then, get your kitchen ready for homemade marinara sauce and juicy tomatoes topping your sandwiches. Whether eaten fresh, cooked or canned, tomatoes are a versatile and tasty fruit. Fertilizing the tomato plants at the correct time helps yield the largest harvest. Tomatoes are low-calorie, rich in vitamins C and A and provide lycopene that may be helpful in preventing certain cancers, according to the University of Missouri Extension website.

When to fertilize?
Fertilize the tomato plant about one or two weeks before the first fruit ripens. Repeat the fertilization two weeks after you pick the first fruit and then again one month later.

Proper amount of fertilizer
Test the soil before fertilizing. This tells you which nutrients the soil is lacking. Tomatoes prefer a soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Work a timed-release fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the soil before planting the tomatoes. Once the proper level is obtained, treat the tomatoes with a maintenance fertilizer at 1 lb. per 100 square feet.

Types of fertilizer
Tomatoes grow best with a balanced fertilizer with equal amounts of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. For instance, too much nitrogen results in a leafy plant with little fruit. Avoid the use of lawn fertilizers. Use a fertilizer product that is formulated for tomatoes or a complete garden fertilizer when preparing the soil. Use a water-soluble fertilizer once the plant begins to produce fruit.

Growing needs
Plant your tomatoes in areas with full sunlight. Areas away from trees and buildings offer the highest yields. A well-drained soil is important to prevent blossom rot or root rot. Tomato plants require a consistently moist soil. Stick your finger into the top 2 inches of soil. If dirt sticks to your finger it is moist enough. Mulch such as straw, pine needles, grass clippings, compost, shredded bark and leaf mold help conserve the moisture in the soil.

Initial fertilization
Tomato plants grow quite well if they are planted in fertilized soil, so turn some slow-release fertilizer into the holes you dig for your tomatoes. Dig down about 6 inches and mix the fertilizer with the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole as well as the soil you plan to use to backfill the hole around the plant's root ball. Most young tomato plants should be placed in holes about 3 inches deep, but the fertilizer and soil mixture should be about 3 inches deep under the final hole.

Subsequent fertilizations
Tomato plants need a second fertilizer treatment just after the tomatoes begin to form. As soon as you see a few defined tomatoes about the size of marbles, add another round of fertilizer. Spray the ground around the plant with a water-soluble fertilizer or turn quick-release fertilizer into the soil around the base of the plant. As the tomatoes grow, fertilize the plants every seven to 10 days until the tomatoes are ready to pick.

Soil types
Tomatoes are fairly hardy and grow in many soil types. However, not all soil holds the fertilizer well. For dense soils with large amounts of clay, stick to 10 days between fertilizations after the tomatoes appear. Sandy soils tend to let nutrients leach away, meaning you must fertilize more often, at least every seven days.

Considerations
Tomatoes need low-nitrogen fertilizers, such as a 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. These should be applied at a rate of about 1 pound per 100 square feet. If you are only planting one or two plants, mix a couple of tablespoons of fertilizer into the soil around each plant during the applications.

Does too much fertilizer cause yellow leaves on a tomato plant?

Tomatoes are one of the few garden vegetables that can land their caretakers in a world of despair when problems erupt -- for all their trouble, it's a wonder anyone grows them. When tomatoes develop yellow leaves, it's unlikely to be caused by too much fertilizer, but could be due to other environmental problems or diseases.

Fertilizing tomatoes
A home soil test kit will give you valuable information about your tomato patch. Tomatoes thrive with medium fertility and show problems when fertility is too high or too low. Usually, they don't require any feeding at planting time, unlike many vegetables. Successful tomato producers may wait to feed tomato plants until fruits are about the size of table tennis balls. At this point, side-dress tomatoes with a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer every four to six weeks until the final harvest.

Signs of too much fertilizer
Over-fertilizing tomatoes early in their lives results in plants that are tall and spindly, with lots of deep green foliage, but few flowers. Tomatoes can't simply use the ideal amount of nitrogen they need to thrive. Instead, excess nitrogen in a tomato plant tells the plant to produce more leaves and stems at the expense of blossoms and fruits. Sometimes, excess nitrogen can be leached from the root area of tomato plants by repeated, deep watering.

Causes of yellowing leaves
Common causes of yellow leaves on tomatoes include cool soil, age-related death of the lower leaves and a myriad of nutritional deficiencies including nitrogen, boron, potassium, iron and magnesium. Leaves may also yellow when affected by fusarium wilt, bacterial wilt or verticillium wilt. These disease are the result of fungal or bacterial pathogens multiplying rapidly in vascular tissues, causing the plant to die from lack of nutrients. Root knot nematodes can kill plants in a similar fashion, but the roots will bear distinctive swollen knots. Wilts and nematodes are difficult or impossible to treat once plants are severely affected.

Soil solarization
Although the disease and pest causes of yellow leaves on a tomato are difficult to cure once the plant is already showing symptoms, you can use soil solarization to destroy these organisms before you plant your next tomato crop. After the troubled tomatoes have died or are removed, till the garden well and smooth the soil with a rake. Apply a 1 mil clear plastic tarp over the prepared and watered soil and leave it there for six weeks. This heats the soil to high enough temperatures to destroy many nematodes and soil-borne fungi and bacteria before the upcoming growing season.

The best numbers in fertilizer for tomatoes

Tomatoes love fertilizer, but their stage of growth will determine what formula of fertilizer is used. Fertilizer formulation is indicated by three numbers. These numbers are interpreted as percentages. The first number is nitrogen, and in tomatoes nitrogen is used to encourage foliage growth. The second number is phosphorus, which encourages growth of flowers and fruit. The third number is potassium, which is used to help build strong stems and root systems.

Nitrogen
Foliage development is improved by the application of a high nitrogen fertilizer when plants are first planted. Nitrogen is used to encourage foliage growth. When tomatoes are planted, it is important to apply a fertilizer that contains a high percentage of nitrogen such as a 5-3-4. Organic sources of nitrogen can be found by the planting of hairy vetch and human hair.

Phosphorus
As the tomato plant matures phosphorus promotes flowering and fruit development. Phosphorus is used to encourage the tomato plant to start flowering and producing fruit. A fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus compared with nitrogen should start as the plant matures and begins to show evidence of blooms. At this stage the percentage of nitrogen should be reduced and phosphorus becoming the higher number with potassium not too far behind. An example of this would be a 3-5-4 formulation. An organic option to increase phosphorus level is through the application of rock phosphate and/or bone meal. Both of these options combine phosphorus and calcium.

Potassium
Potassium encourages the development of a strong stem and root system for tomato plants. Potassium is important to the tomato plant during its whole life cycle. It encourages strong stem development and root systems that are needed to support the plant and fruit. In the beginning of the season it is important to have nitrogen and potassium relatively close together in percentage. But as the season continues potassium numbers need to be close to phosphorus for fruit support. Fertilizer needed during the fruiting cycle is 3-5-5 or 8-10-10. An organic option for potassium is banana peels buried in the soil around tomato plants.

The effect of different fertilizers on tomato plants

Tomato plants are highly adaptable, low-maintenance plants that yield a desirable fruit for a multitude of culinary uses. However, fruit production is influenced greatly by the care practices employed. Even the fertilizer can affect plants in different ways. If your plants aren't achieving the growth and development you hoped for, chances are the problem has to do with the fertilizer.

Planting Preparation
Although tomato plants grow well in just about any soil, you can enhance their growth and development by preparing the soil before planting. Fortify the soil by adding a layer of organic fertilizer such as compost, manure or peat moss. These fertilizers increase the soil's nutrient content and aid in plant growth, as they help roots absorb moisture and nutrients.

Nitrogen
When your tomato plants look lush, green and healthy but fail to form fruit, the fertilizer might be to blame. A fertilizer with too much nitrogen (N) can make plants grow quickly, but can also impede fruit development. In particular, plants that receive too much nitrogen develop many leaves but few or no blossoms, which are required for fruit to set. Change to a more balanced fertilizer formula of equal or nearly equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK).

Phosphorous
Tomato plants probably aren't getting enough phosphorous if they appear healthy but have fruit that never ripens or fruit of irregular size. Phosphorous (P) encourages fruit development. Switch to a fertilizer with higher amounts of phosphorous if your tomato plants have a fruiting problem.

Potassium
Fertilizers with concentrations potassium (K) of 50 percent or more can cause a tomato plant to suffer from calcium deficiency. A calcium-deficient plant growing in less-than-optimal environmental conditions is prone to blossom rot, which causes blossoms to drop prematurely. Blossom rot severely reduces crop production because the fruit isn't able to form. Apply 3/4 cup of lime to the soil around each plant to counteract the fertilizer's effects and replace the fertilizer formula with one that contains less potassium. Lime helps reverse the damage done to the plant before the nutrient imbalance is corrected.

Considerations
A fertilizer low in nitrogen, high in phosphorus and medium to high in potassium is often ideal for initial soil preparation, according to horticulturist David Trinklein of the University of Missouri Extension. He suggests an initial application of a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. Do not use a fertilizer containing urea or ammonium nitrate because those chemicals can interfere with plant development. Once plants begin to develop, apply a balanced fertilizer with NPK ratios of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 to enhance normal plant maintenance. Apply it at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 square feet.

Tomato fertilizer ingredients

Using a fertilizer designed for the needs of tomato plants will help you grow stronger, healthier plants that, in turn, will produce more tomatoes. Tomato-plant fertilizers consist of three main components: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Before planting your tomato plants, apply a tomato fertilizer to the garden's soil at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Work the fertilizer into the soil, to a depth of 6 inches, with a rototiller.

Nitrogen
Nitrogen, also referred to as N, is the fertilizer component that contributes to the tomato plant's growth. While it's a good idea to use a fertilizer that contains nitrogen for your tomatoes, the fertilizer should not be high in nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen applied to tomato plants results in accelerated leaf and stem growth, but reduced fruit production. A garden fertilizer such as 8-32-16 or 6-24-24 is recommended. The first number represents the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer and, as you can see, the nitrogen level is much less than the phosphorus and potassium. Once the tomatoes reach the size of golf balls, add 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate around the base of the plant, and again three to six weeks after, to boost tomato size.

Phosphorus
Phosphorous, often referred to as P, is the fertilizer component responsible for growth of the roots and maturation of the plant. When looking for a tomato fertilizer, choose one in which the phosphorous, always represented by the second of the three numbers, is either the highest number or equal to the last number, which represents potassium. To produce the phosphorous for fertilizer, rock phosphate is treated with acid to make it soluble. Just how much of this soluble phosphorous actually gets to the tomato plant depends on factors such as the soil's moisture content, pH level, minerals and temperature. Soils with a fine texture, such as clay soils, will hold more of the soluble phosphorous than rough, sandy soils. High pH levels and excessive moisture due to high rainfall also lower the level of phosphorous that is absorbed by the tomato plants.

Potassium
The role of potassium, also referred to as K, is not as well known as that of the other two elements. What is known is that potassium is believed to be responsible for the movement of nutrients, carbohydrates and water within the tomato plants, as well as increasing the plant's resistance against disease and insects. This makes it just as essential as nitrogen and phosphorous, because without potassium, tomato plants become stunted and produce fewer tomatoes.

How to use seaweed to fertilize tomato plants?

Seaweed is among the best gifts nature makes available for the gardener. Seaweed will benefit your garden any time of year, but it is especially useful as a mulch to protect plants during hot, dry weather. In our garden, we’ve come to rely on seaweed as a valuable, yet free, source of fertilizer, mulch and organic pest control all in one natural material.

Benefits of seaweed for gardening

Gathering seaweed for the garden has always been a favorite outing for our family. We usually take a small skiff to a nearby beach and load up with as many sacks as we can safely transport home. It’s fun for children, as they can participate as well as an adult, or they can simply enjoy the beach while we gather the seaweed. As we fill up our sacks, our thoughts drift to the many benefits this will bring our garden.

• Saves water, keeps soil moist at ground level

The purpose of any mulch is to keep garden soil from drying out at the surface. And by preventing moisture from evaporating, mulch reduces the need for watering. The practice of mulching is essential in areas where conditions are hot and dry.

• Eliminates the need to weed

Mulch covers the soil and blocks new weeds from sprouting. Because the soil beneath the mulch remains moist, any weeds which do manage to sprout through the mulch are easy to pick.

• Repels slugs and other pests

Slugs are immediately repelled by two things – salt and sharp-edged materials. Seaweed has a natural salt content which repels slugs, and within a few days of application it dries and becomes quite crispy. Slugs do not like “crispy” surfaces, as the sharp salty edges cut into the soft body tissue. While some mulches may provide hiding spots for slugs, earwigs and other pests, seaweed mulch does not have this disadvantage.

• Enriches the soil

Seaweed is a broad spectrum fertilizer that is rich in beneficial trace minerals and hormones that stimulate plant growth. Seaweed is high in carbohydrates which are essential building blocks in growing plants, and low in cellulose so it breaks down readily. Seaweed shares no diseases with land plants.

• Boosts lethargic plants

Seaweed fertilizer contains an abundance of fully chelated (ready to use) micro-nutrients which can be readily absorbed by plants without any further chemical decomposition needed.

• Helps lighten the soil

Compacted soil can benefit as seaweed mulch breaks down. As the material becomes incorporated into the soil, aeration is improved and the soil becomes more crumbly and moist.

• Does not contain weed seeds, unlike bark mulch

Two years ago we used commercial bark mulch to cover our garden pathways for the purpose of blocking weeds. Today, these pathways are sprouting horsetail, an invasive weed which can be difficult to eradicate. Seaweed does not bring any foreign weed seeds into your garden.

• It’s free!

But what about salt? Is this a problem?
We have been using seaweed as mulch for many years and have not seen any adverse effect, such as a salt overload in the soil. In our region we have plentiful rain. If you are concerned about salt, seaweed can be spread out over the driveway and rinsed with a hose. Of course this is not an issue if you are using freshwater lake weed.

Gathering seaweed for use in the garden

• Gather ‘mid-beach’

Seaweed is often found scattered on the beach from the water’s edge to the highest point of recent high tides. The seaweed ‘mid-beach’ is drier than seaweed at the tide line and therefore lighter to carry. It also has fewer bugs than the seaweed high up on the beach, and is a little more pleasant to gather.

• Use fine, broken up seaweed

Look for patches of seaweed that are smaller in leaf size as this will be easier to apply as mulch. Set large kelp fronds aside – the wide pieces are difficult to form around plants in the garden beds. The kelp can be used to make ‘kelp tea’ and used as a foliar spray to deter insect pests.

• Use onion sacks or woven poly bags or buckets

We like onion sacks for gathering seaweed because they are lightweight, the water drains out easily, and they are easy to grip. They are also small enough that we don’t overload ourselves with heavy sacks. Woven poly bags are great if you can find them – ask at your whole foods store because these bags are used to ship whole grains. Don’t use plastic garbage bags as they are too difficult to handle. Your hands get slimy when picking seaweed and this transfers to the bag making it slippery.

• Limit your impact by picking lightly from several areas

Each patch of seaweed provides food and shelter for many small marine species. Pick no more than a third of the seaweed from any patch, and move on to another spot.

Applying seaweed to your garden beds

• Apply seaweed within 36 hours of gathering

Seaweed breaks down quickly, especially when in an enclosed sack. If you leave the seaweed in the sacks too long, it gets sludgy and slimy, and is more difficult to spread evenly over the soil.

• Apply thickly, at least 4 – 6” deep

Spread the seaweed thickly and evenly around the garden beds to cover any exposed soil. You may think you’re adding too much, but in a few days you will think otherwise.

• Reapply in one week, another 4 – 6” deep

Seaweed shrinks when it dries. Even a generous layer of seaweed will dry in a few hot days to expose much of the soil. The seaweed will become very stiff and crispy. Ideally, you should reapply in a week or so, and this second application will dry out but still provide good coverage for your soil. Once we make the second application, our beds are usually well-mulched for at least 4 – 6 weeks even in hot, dry weather.

• Leave a clear space around plant stems

Once you have spread the seaweed around the plants, push it back just a little from the plant stems so they are not in direct contact with the wet seaweed. Once it dries, the seaweed will naturally ‘shrink’ away from the stems, but it’s a good habit with any mulch to keep plant stems clear.

• It’s OK to mix seaweed with other mulch

We use whatever mulch we can get, and it doesn’t matter if you mix several varieties of mulch on a garden bed. For example, our tomatoes are mulched with dried grass clippings (straw) and topped with seaweed. In the fall we’ll add maple leaves. Mix and match, it matters not.

• Don’t use seaweed to cover garden pathways

Some people use seaweed as a pathway mulch but this is a waste of good seaweed, which is better used on the garden soil for the reasons listed above. If seaweed is used on pathways, it quickly thins out to allow weeds to get through. And the seaweed will become very slippery underfoot after a rain.

Is sugar a good fertilizer for tomato plants?

The Facts
Sugar acts as a counter-balance to excess nitrogen in the soil. These types of soils, known as "rich" soils, promote foliage at the expense of flowers.

Function
Carbons require nitrogen to decompose, so adding carbon-rich additives to the soil help deplete it of excess nitrogen. Wood chips are an excellent form of carbon for large areas but sugar works equally as well for small gardens.

Considerations
While sugar is not really considered a fertilizer, in that it adds no nutrients to the soil, it is a carbon that will use up excess nitrogen. Use 4.5 lbs. of sugar for each 10 square feet of soil.

Fish emulsion & tomatoes

It's nearly impossible to grow tomatoes without giving them regular fertilizer. Many gardeners prefer using organic fertilizer on their homegrown fruit, but ordinary compost and manure--while useful when growing tomatoes--doesn't adequately feed tomato plants. Many other types of organic fertilizer aren't adequate for tomatoes, either, producing spindly, sickly plants. That's why fish emulsion is so popular among tomato gardeners.

What Is It?
Fish emulsion (sometimes called fish fertilizer or liquid fish emulsion) is an organic, liquid fertilizer made from byproducts of the fish industry. It's particularly useful for lawns and leafy green vegetables, having a high level of nitrogen. It's typically sold as a concentrate that gardeners dilute with water. Although it often has a fishy smell, deodorized versions are available at gardening centers.

Nutrients
Commercial fertilizers are labeled with three numbers separated by dashes. These numbers tell gardeners the percentage by weight of three nutrients every plant needs: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K). Most fish emulsion is rated 5-1-1 or 5-2-2.

Fish emulsion, applied twice weekly, helps tomato plants grow larger and faster than plants that are not fertilized. Specifically, the nitrogen in the fish fertilizer encourages lots of leaves and branches, which help support the tomato plant's large root system and bountiful crop.

Why use it?
Tomatoes require plenty of water. However, watering depletes soil of nutrients tomatoes need to thrive. Therefore, frequent fertilizing of tomatoes is necessary. Although non-organic fertilizers may be used on tomatoes, they may add too much salt to the soil, thereby stunting the plant. Fish emulsion is a better choice because there is no danger of over-salting--yet the emulsion releases nutrients quickly to the tomato plant.

How to Use It?
Dilute the fish emulsion according to the manufacturer's directions, then put it in a garden sprayer and apply it to the tomato plant's leaves. Do not apply during the hottest part of the day, since this could potentially burn the plant's leaves--and will certainly make the fertilizer scent stronger.

How to Make Your Own?
It's possible to make your own fish emulsion, but fishing for the purpose of using the catch for fertilizer is discouraged. Home-made versions of fish emulsion can contain higher levels of nutrients, since already processed, commercial fish have less oil and bones, and therefore less proteins and other nutrients. In addition, home-made versions can have higher levels of fungi and bacteria--both essential to a healthy garden.

To make your own emulsion, take a five-gallon bucket (placed in a sunny location) and fill it halfway with leaves or sawdust. Add fish and fill with water. A couple of tablespoons of molasses added to the mixture will help it decompose faster and can reduce the smell.

Allow the mixture to ferment for three months. A layer of oil will form on the top of the water; skim it off with a large spoon and place in a separate container. Dilute with water (about 1-to-1) before spraying plants.

The best fertilizer combination for tomatoes

Many gardeners have secret fertilizer recipes for growing the biggest and tastiest tomatoes. Even agriculture experts offer competing nutritional theories. Most everyone agrees on several details. First, use minimal nitrogen on tomatoes---nitrogen supports vine growth, not flowers and fruit. Second, make sure your soil pH is nearly neutral, between 6.5 and 7.0. Third, start your fertilization program with a comprehensive soil test. Don't apply phosphate or potassium, for example, if your soil has plenty already.

Best Combinations

According to University of Missouri Extension, a standard tomato fertilization program starts with adding fertilizer to the soil before planting. Because tomatoes are heavy feeders, supplement with regular side applications of fast-release fertilizer during the growing season. A fertilizer low in nitrogen (N), high in phosphorous (P) and medium or high in potassium (K)---the three numbers in fertilizer nutrient analysis, always in that order---is ideal for tomatoes. The best analyses for tomato fertilizers are 8-32-16 and 6-24-24, according to the University of Missour. These are high in phosphorous in order to support flower and fruit development. But Cornell University's College of Agriculture prefers a balanced fertilizer, with similar amounts of N, P and K, and just about any balanced fertilizer will do, such as 10-10-10.

Inorganic Combinations

Sometimes called synthetic or chemical fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer types are those with N, P and K immediately available for plant use. Inorganic fertilizers also come in slow-release forms, which are typically more expensive. Cornell's suggested 10-10-10 all-purpose fertilizer is easier to find than the University of Missouri's 8-32-16 and 6-24-24 recommended formulations, but both should be available in slow- and fast-release forms. Very easy to use as 60-day slow-release fertilizer "spikes" you stick in the ground near each tomato plant, Jobe's Fertilizer Spikes for Tomatoes have a nutrient analysis of 8-24-8. Other good tomato fertilizers---though they may be labeled as flower or "bloom" fertilizers---will be high in phosphorous, with nutrient ratios such as 10-20-10, 15-30-15, 12-24-12 or 8-16-8. Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food, by contrast, is 18-18-21--very similar, proportionately, to all-purpose 10-10-10 fertilizer, just more concentrated.

Organic Combinations

The same general trends in plant nutrient needs and proportions hold up with commercial organic fertilizers, but the process is much more complex. This is because plant nutrients in organic fertilizers are bound up in organic compounds, which are not available to plants for use until these compounds are broken down in the soil by microbes. This makes it harder for gardeners or growers to know exactly how much of any given nutrient is immediately available, although building living, dynamic soil eventually delivers high levels of all nutrients. Commercial organic products feasible for tomatoes include Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer, with a nutrient analysis of 5-7-3, and Fox Farms' Happy Frog Fruit & Flower Organic Fertilizer, with a nutrient analysis of 5-8-4. But organic growers experiment with many approaches, including devising their own fertilizer combinations and blends. To meet the relatively low nitrogen levels needed by tomatoes, for example, some very successful tomato farmers grow legumes or "green manure" crops during the previous season, because legumes "fix" atmospheric nitrogen and make it available in the soil. Composted chicken manure is a good source of both nitrogen and phosphorous. Bone meal is an excellent phosphorous source, and wood ashes provide quick phosphate and potash. Organic fertilizers such as liquid fish emulsion can be used in the garden and also on container-grown tomatoes.

How to feed tomato plants in containers?

Tomato plants grow well in containers, provided the pots are large enough and the plants are kept well-watered and fed. Tomato plants grown in an open garden pull nutrients as needed from the soil. In containers, tomato plants often need more frequent feeding, as the nutrients in smaller quantities of soil deplete quickly. Feed these tomato plants at least once every 10 to 14 days. This is assuming you are using liquid or granules, rather than fertiliser spikes (these are left in the soil).

1. Use a good starter fertiliser, mixed in with the potting soil, when you first plant tomatoes. If you've already planted them in containers, add a water-soluble starter fertiliser to the top 2.5 cm (1 inch) of soil and water it in well. When water starts seeping out of the container base, you've watered deeply enough. If you are using a liquid fertiliser, apply it carefully to avoid splashes and follow mixing directions and application directions fully.
2. Fertilize the plant again in two weeks. This time, use either another water-soluble liquid or granule fertiliser (for tomatoes) or add a tomato fertiliser spike to the pot. Fertiliser spikes release fertiliser gradually over time (up to two months) -- these may be more convenient if you have a very busy schedule. No matter which kind of fertiliser you use, water the soil well so the fertiliser travels down towards the plant roots where the plant can use it.
3. Continue fertilising the plant every two weeks (unless you use spikes), until the first fruit blossoms appear. When this occurs, start fertilising every week throughout the rest of the growing season.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders. They are greedy and like lots of food. Use tomato fertilizer wisely and your plants will reward you.

Why container watering impacts feeding

Tomatoes in pots and containers require frequent watering or they will dry out. But watering leaches nutrients out of container plants. So you need to be especially vigilant to include tomato fertilizer in your container gardening plan to get best results.

Try these top tips for fertilizing tomatoes in pots

• Add a slow-release fertilizer (like Osmocote) to your containers when planting. Nutrients will disperse over time.
• Try grass clippings. They do double duty as mulch. Apply a couple of inches to the soil surface of your containers.
• One easy way to fertilize tomatoes is to mix a small amount of soluble, balanced tomato fertilizer (like Miracle Grow for Tomatoes) into water. Fertilize and water at the same time.
• When it comes to fertilizing tomatoes in pots, little and often is better than a lot, less often. Tomatoes like regular feedings of small amounts of fertilizer rather than infrequent, large doses. Some gardeners swear by weekly feedings or even more often. Others say every two weeks is enough. Take time to find out the best schedule that works for your plants. There are plenty of variables including tomato variety, container size, plant size, your weather, and potting mix type.
• You’ll know you’re feeding plants too much when they produce more leaves than fruit. If production is low or foliage starts to yellow, you’re probably not feeding enough.
• A good fertilizer to use on container tomatoes should have more phosphorus (the middle number in a fertilizer’s 3-number series) than nitrogen (the first number in a fertilizer’s 3-number series). Too much nitrogen can mean lots of leaves and few fruit.
• Avoid feeding tomatoes at the peak of the day or when weather is really hot – say, when temperatures are over 90-95 degrees. Extra nutrients are hard for plants to digest in the heat.

How to fertilize tomatoes with tea leaves?

Plumbers warn against putting tea leaves down sinks, toilets and garbage disposals because they can cause clogs and the tannins can damage the garbage disposal motor. Put your spent tea leaves to work for your plants as mulch, for acid-loving plants, or as a source of nitrogen and minerals for your compost pile.

Collect Tea Leaves
Choose a shallow, open container for collecting your spent tea leaves so that they can dry quickly. Wet tea leaves can develop mold, so don't let them pile up. Also, avoid using the leaves from flavored teas in plant care, which have usually been flavored with oils that may be harmful to plants.

Tea Leaves as Mulch
Scatter tea leaves (which are acidic) around your "acid-loving" outdoor plants and shrubs, such as dogwood, gardenia and hibiscus.

Tea Leaves in Compost
Add tea leaves (and tea bags) to your compost pile as a source of nitrogen. Be sure to keep your carbon/nitrogen balance in check, however.

Tea Bags
Remove tags and staples from your tea bags before adding them to your compost pile (You do not have to remove the leaves from the tea bags before composting.). It is also OK to add paper-bagged teas to worm compost piles.

If you use modern "silky" teabags (instead of paper), be sure that they are made of a biodegradable material, such as cornstarch, before composting them. Some of these bags are made from nylon, and these will not decompose.

Potential Problems
Keep a sharp eye on your plants when you first begin using tea leaves as mulch or compost. Tea leaves naturally contain fluoride, which, if used to excess, can damage some plants.

How to plant tomatoes with corn meal?

Growing tomatoes can be challenging due to the number of fungal diseases that kill leaves and stunt fruit development. Weeds also slow down the growth of tomato plants, making it hard for gardeners in areas with cool summers to get their plants large enough to ripen fruit before fall sets in. Adding horticultural corn meal and corn gluten meal to your garden when planting tomatoes can improve your results. These corn meal products are an organic alternative to chemical fungicides, herbicides and nitrate-heavy fertilizers.

1. Till or turn 25 pounds of corn gluten meal into each 1,000 square feet of soil a few weeks prior to transplanting tomatoes. This will provide the nitrogen needed to jump start tomato growth because corn gluten meal is about 10 percent nitrogen by volume, according to the University of Minnesota Extension Office.
2. Mix in approximately 40 pounds of horticultural corn meal into each 1,000 square feet of soil if you prefer to directly sow your tomato seeds into the ground. Corn meal has less nitrogen than corn gluten meal, but won't interfere with the germination of the seeds like the gluten meal will.
3. Sprinkle half a cup of corn gluten meal around the base of each tomato plant as soon as you are done transplanting. This will suppress the growth of a range of weeds by interfering with seed germination, according to the Horticultural Department of Iowa State University.
4. Apply corn gluten meal or horticultural corn meal around the plant as rain washes it away to prevent soil-borne fungal diseases from spreading to the tomato plants. Corn meal attracts and feeds micro-organisms that destroy fungi, states the University of Texas Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Things you will need:

1. Horticultural corn meal
2. Corn gluten meal
3. Shovel

Tip

• Use horticultural corn meal or corn gluten meal, not the corn meal sold at grocery stores for consumption. Food-grade corn meal is mostly starch, but horticultural products are milled for higher protein content and contain more nitrogen.

Warning

• Don't apply wet corn meal directly to the leaves of the plant. This encourages mold growth and won't stop a fungal disease that is already damaging your tomato plants.

How to apply soybean meal to tomato plants?

Nitrogen is essential to tomato plants for proper vine growth. If the tomatoes do not have enough nitrogen, they will be yellow and stunted. Too much nitrogen, however, can result in reduced fruit production. Soybean meal (7-2-1) is a good organic plant-based source of nitrogen. It decomposes in the soil, slowly releasing nitrogen, and does not harm the roots of the plants. Applying the soybean meal at the right times will ensure your tomatoes get plenty of nitrogen for growth without slowing the production of fruit.

1. Have the soil tested to determine nitrogen levels. If there are already sufficient levels of nitrogen in your soil, it will not be necessary to add more. Excess nitrogen will reduce the amount of tomatoes produced by the plant.
2. Amend soil with soybean meal right before planting the tomatoes. Mix the meal into the soil at a rate of eight pounds per 100 square feet, using a tiller or a shovel.
3. Re-apply the meal after the tomatoes begin forming on the vines. A re-application is necessary as the soybean meal releases into the soil for one to four months, depending on environmental conditions. Heat and moisture hasten the release time. Sprinkle the meal on the soil around the plant. Add roughly one pound of soybean meal for each plant.

Things you will need:

1. Soybean meal
2. Shovel
3. Scoop

How do I plant tomatoes using bone meal, sugar and Epsom salts?

Tomatoes will grow anywhere. They thrive in optimal growing conditions made possible with the addition of soil amendments. Soil amendments mixed in with the soil helps the tomato plants produce more fruit. Vegetable growers have learned that some soil additives help the plants produce a tomato low in acid content, firm to the touch and not overly juicy. Utilize soil amendments during planting time and enjoy some of the best-tasting tomatoes that ever decorated a sandwich.

Step 1:
Dig a hole that is two-and-a-half times deeper than the root ball of the tomato plant and twice as wide as the root ball. This will give the plant plenty of room to spread and encourage the roots to grow in an outward direction.

Step 2:
Drop 1 cup of bone meal and 1 cup of granulated sugar along with a shovel of mulch into the hole. Bone meal contains phosphorous that helps tomatoes grow and flower. Sugar granules break up and help offset the acidity of the fruit; they become absorbed into the tomato plant through its root system. Mulch decomposes and provides beneficial nutrients for the plant. Use the point of the shovel to blend together the bone meal, sugar and mulch.

Step 3:
Place a tomato plant in the bottom of the hole so that the stem points upwards. Keep at least two sets of leaves above the surface of the soil. Gardeners refer to this procedure as burying the plant "deep." When covered with earth, tiny roots will sprout from the stem of the tomato plant. Root strands help anchor the plant to the soil and absorb rainwater.

Step 4:
Pull the loose soil back into the hole with a hoe. Vegetable gardeners call this "back-filling" the hole. Wear your gardening gloves and tamp the dirt down around the tomato plant with the palms of your hands. Firm soil will stabilize your tomato plant and allow the roots to "breathe."

Step 5:
Sprinkle 1 cup of Epsom salts around the base of the plant and work the granules into the earth with your fingers. Epsom salts contain magnesium and sulfur; these two ingredients act together to fertilize a tomato plant.

Step 6:
Use a watering can to water your freshly planted tomato plant. Gardeners call this “watering in” a tomato plant. Use at least one watering can of water per plant.

Things you will need:

1. Pointed shovel
2. Bone meal
3. Granulated sugar
4. Mulch
5. Hoe
6. Epsom salts
7. Gardening gloves
8. Watering can

Tips:

• When the tomato plant begins to flower, add 1 tsp. of granulated sugar to a watering can. Fill the can with water. Sprinkle the solution over the tomato plant; repeat daily until tomatoes begin to form on the plant. This produces sweeter tasting tomatoes.

Warning:

• Tomato worms eat the leaves of tomato plants. Check your tomato plants daily for insects.

How to add bone meal to a tomato garden?

Gardeners growing tomatoes often fertilize them with assorted ingredients to achieve the best yield. It starts with amending the garden soil to make it rich in organic materials. At planting time, add bonemeal to each planting hole to boost the phosphorus level. Plentiful phosphorus enables strong and deep roots and bountiful blossoms. Bonemeal releases slowly into the soil to give tomatoes a steady supply of nutrients as they grow.

Instructions

1. Prepare the planting area in the spring. Cultivate the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches with a garden spade. Add 2 to 4 inches of compost over the soil surface to improve drainage and soil composition. Rake the soil surface smooth.
2. Dig holes for the tomato plants. Make the holes approximately 1 foot deep and 3 feet apart.
3. Add one cup of bonemeal to the bottom of each hole. You could also add a tbsp. of Epsom salt to the hole for a magnesium boost, two eggshells for added calcium and a scoop of dry all-purpose fertilizer for general nutrients.
4. Place a tomato plant into each hole, situating it so the soil level reaches the bottom stems. Fill soil in around the tomato plant, firming it gently with your hands.
5. Give the tomato plants a thorough watering immediately after you finish planting them.
6. Apply a side dressing of bonemeal when the first blossoms appear to keep the tomato plants healthy. Dig a shallow trench about 6 inches away from the plants and sprinkle a half-inch-deep and half-inch-wide line of bonemeal into the trench. Scratch the bonemeal into the soil with a hand rake and water the soil thoroughly.

Things you will need

1. Garden spade
2. Compost
3. Rake
4. Shovel
5. Bone meal
6. Epsom salt
7. Eggshells (optional)
8. Granular fertilizer (4-6-4)
9. Cup-size scoop
10. Tomato plants
11. Hand rake

What is bone meal fertilizer made up of?

Bone meal is high in phosphorus and calcium, making it a preferred organic fertilizer to boost blooming in flowering plants. When applied at planting time, bone meal gives bulbs the nutrients they need to produce healthy blooms in spring. Like blood meal, bone meal is a byproduct of the slaughterhouse industry.

Raw Bones

Bone meal is made from the raw bones of animals that were slaughtered for human consumption. Meat, or muscles, and fat are removed from the bones. Then the bones are transported from the slaughterhouse to a facility that turns them into bone meal.

Processing Operation

The bones are processed at a high heat level to make grinding them easier than it would be otherwise. Most often, they are steamed or boiled in a closed container to remove traces of fat and gelatinous material. The gelatinous material is saved and used commercially to make gelatin and glue. Some bones are treated with acid before they are processed or ground.

Grinding Procedure

Processed bones are softer than fresh bones, making them easier to grind than fresh bones. The processed bones can be mechanically ground into a fine powder that releases phosphorus into soil quickly. Some ground bone meal, labeled as "raw bone meal," is made by grinding unprocessed, or uncooked, bones, but the grinding process for those bones is considerably more difficult than the grinding procedure for processed bones. Raw bone meal contains higher amounts of nitrogen than ground processed bones due to the protein in the fresh bones. The fatty residue from fresh bones delays the decomposition of raw bone meal in soil, making it a slower-acting soil amendment.

Final Product

Processed bone meal is sterile and contains no animal pathogens. It is packaged and distributed as an organic fertilizer. Bone meal's phosphorus is available to plants only when the plants' soil pH level is under 7.0, Colorado State University research indicates.

Is bone meal good for tomato plants?

Bone meal is sometimes recommended for tomatoes and other vegetable plants as an organic source of nutrients, especially phosphorus. Tomato plants thrive when grown in nutrient-rich, organic soils and need adequate phosphorus to produce quality fruit. When used properly, bone meal can help support vigorous tomato plants. But using bone meal may present some level of risk, especially if you use too much or if you use it when the soil doesn't need it.

Bone Meal Products

Bone meal is derived primarily from byproducts of the livestock and poultry we eat. Bones are usually steamed then ground into a powder or a granular product for garden use. Bone meal has a small amount of nitrogen, moderate calcium and moderate to high amounts of phosphorus when used as an organic fertilizer. These are generally released into the soil more slowly than many synthetic fertilizers. One application per season is often enough.

Soil

Before planting tomatoes or adding bone meal to your soil, conduct a thorough soil test using a kit from a garden center or soil testing service in your area. Tomatoes prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8 that is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Adjust soils that are too acidic with lime and those that are alkaline with sulfur products, according to test report recommendations. If your soil is sandy or clay-dense, incorporate organic matter, like finished compost, before planting tomatoes to balance drainage concerns and add supplemental nutrition.

Phosphorus

If your soil test report reveals a phosphorus or calcium deficiency, you can add bone meal to your tomato planting area. The "P" component you might see on a bone meal fertilizer label is phosphorus. The value can range from 10 to 13 percent or more. Tomatoes need calcium to produce healthy fruit, especially to resist the common disorder, blossom-end rot. Along with the pH adjustments and organic amendments you have incorporated, judicious bone meal supplements will support healthy, productive tomatoes.

Risks

Although bone meal is an organic fertilizer, using it is not risk-free. Phosphorus can accumulate in your soil with successive or large applications of bone meal. High levels can skew the balance of beneficial soil microbes, potentially harming tomatoes more than helping them. Additionally, excess phosphorus can leach into water tables and sensitive stream and river ecosystems, presenting significant health risks to aquatic life. Use bone meal with caution and only when you're sure the soil needs it.