Cabbage looper on tomatoes

The cabbage looper is primarily a pest of brassica crops, but will sometimes expand its smorgasbord to include everything from cantaloupe to tomatoes.

Looper caterpillars are easily recognized because they crawl by arching their backs. Looper eggs are laid singly on the undersurface of mature leaves. They are similar to fruitworm eggs, but flatter, and have finer ridges radiating from the top.

Cabbage loopers feed only on foliage, not on fruit. Damage is usually insufficient to require control measures so treatment is rarely recommended.

Distribution

The cabbage looper is found throughout Canada, Mexico, and the United States wherever crucifers are cultivated, and on any other continents. However, overwintering in the United States apparently occurs only in the southernmost states. It is somewhat erratic in occurrence, typically very abundant one year, and then scarce for two to three years. This is likely due to a nuclear polyhedrosis virus. The cabbage looper is highly dispersive, and adults have sometimes found at high altitudes and far from shore. Flight ranges of approximately 200 km have been estimated.

Damage

Cabbage loopers are leaf feeders, and in the first three instars they confine their feeding to the lower leaf surface, leaving the upper surface intact. The fourth and fifth instars chew large holes, and usually do not feed at the leaf margin. In the case of cabbage, however, they feed not only on the wrapper leaves, but also may bore into the developing head. Larvae consume three times their weight in plant material daily. Feeding sites are marked by large accumulations of sticky, wet fecal material. Despite their voracious appetite, larvae are not always as destructive as presumed.

Prevention

• Grow healthy organic plants. Strong plants can handle some damage from cabbage loopers and worms better than weak, struggling plants. Make sure that your crops are getting enough sunlight and water, and that the soil is well-drained and rich in nutrients and organic matter.
• Remove or till in old plants. Because pupae of both these caterpillars spend the winter on dead plants and garden litter, it is important to remove that stuff from the field and compost it or till it into the soil. This works best in fall, and must be done before adult moths and butterflies emerge in spring. [top]
• Use row covers. Keep the moths and butterflies from finding your crop by covering your plants with a lightweight “floating” row cover such as Reemay. These materials (as opposed to plastic or heavier fabrics) allow water, air, and sunlight to get through. You can get them at garden supply stores or order them from seed catalogs. The covers can lie right on the plants (the plants will lift the cover as they grow), or you can support the covers with wire hoops. Broccoli, cabbage, and other Brassica crops do not need pollination by flying insects to produce, so you can leave the covers on all season.
• Some other prevention methods are:

• Keep the garden free of weeds, especially those preferred by cabbage loopers – wild mustard, peppergrass, and wild cabbage.

• Monitor susceptible plants for cabbage looper eggs and crush them before they hatch.

• Check the undersides of leaves for young looper larvae. Hand pick and destroy them by dropping the caterpillars in soapy water.

• Use floating row covers as a barrier to moths. Be sure to anchor all sides of the row covers.

• Collect diseased caterpillars and make your own cabbage looper remedy. Cabbage looper larvae are susceptible to a virus that kills them. Infected caterpillars will look yellow or white, and swollen. Blend these sick caterpillars with water and spray it on plants to infect other larvae.

• Apply Bacillus thuringensis when larvae are young.

Management and treatment

Although common in tomato fields, cabbage looper populations are generally kept below damaging levels by naturally occurring parasites and a viral disease. Moderate numbers of loopers are considered more beneficial than harmful because they serve as alternative hosts for parasitic wasps that also attack tomato fruitworms and other pest caterpillars. Treatment is only necessary if feeding is extensive enough that sunburn of the fruit is a concern. Consider nondisruptive insecticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis to protect natural enemies.

Biological control
There are several important naturally occurring parasites that help control loopers in tomatoes. One of these is Hyposoter exiguae, which also attacks tomato fruitworms and armyworms. Another parasitic wasp, Copidosoma truncatellum, commonly kills cabbage looper and other larvae by attacking the overwintering pupae. Looper eggs are often killed by Trichogramma released for tomato fruitworm control often parasitize cabbage looper eggs as well. Alfalfa and cabbage loopers are also subject to disease caused by a nuclear polyhedrosis virus. Conserve these parasites by not treating with disruptive pesticides, particularly early in the season.

Organically acceptable methods
Biological control and sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis or the Entrust formulation of spinosad are acceptable for use on an organically certified crop.

Monitoring and treatment decisions
Determine the extent of damage in the field. If damage is severe enough to expose fruit to sunburn, treat mid- to late-season foliage to maintain the plant canopy. Spot treat only severely infested areas.

Blister beetles

Several species of slender, elongate beetles up to 19 mm long; have prominent heads; bodies variously colored but usually black, black with yellow margins, or black and yellow striped; stringy black excrement on heavily infested plants; foliage ragged; plants sometimes stunted.

A screenshot of Blister Beetle.

Growing Dwarf Cherry Trees (without watering) and with the Groasis Waterboxx

Last year, the author decided to plant a dwarf cherry tree purchased from Stark Brothers nursery online.  The tree, a Blackgold® Sweet Cherry Semi-Dwarf, barely grew over the first year (without a Waterboxx).  We watered the trees consistently from a hose during 2013.  We were very disappointed with this and the tree at the end of its first winter (late February) is shown below.

Below you see the cherry tree after the Waterboxx was placed (on April 27) , with a little bit of leaf growth.  There was a late spring this year after a bitterly cold winter, and we haven't yet seen much growth.

Below we see the tree only three weeks later (May 18) with approximate doubling in canopy size.  This is largely due to the consistent water provided by the Groasis Waterboxx.

In the interim between the above and below pictures, we had some animal (we believe a rabbit) eat bark from around 80% of the trunk.  We repaired this the best we could and added a GrowSafe® Telescoprotexx (tree protector) that allows sunlight to reach the small tree but protects it from animals.  The tree below is shown on July 22, 2014.  The canopy size is again almost doubled, and now the tree is in danger of getting so large so quickly that we may have trouble removing the Waterboxx.

The Groasis Waterboxx was designed to grow trees in deserts, but even in relatively wet climates (like ours in Indiana) it dramatically increases tree growth because the Waterboxx allows for constant irrigation to the roots.  The Waterboxx collects near nightly dew and occasional rainwater, and stores this water in a 4 gallon reservoir, and slowly releases this to the roots of the growing plant in its center.  The Waterboxx is removed after about one year (before the tree canopy gets too large to permit the central Waterboxx opening around it) and is reused for up to 10 years.  The Waterboxx planted tree then has deeply developed roots, which access capillary water and provide drought resistance to the tree.

We will continue to update this page with more photos throughout the year.  We expect our first cherry crop next year thanks to the Waterboxx.

Be the first in your area to begin planting trees with the Waterboxx.  Not only does the Waterboxx save time and conserve water, but it also saves money on planting trees when all costs are considered.  Buy the Waterboxx here.

You can see all our blog posts about planting trees with the Waterboxx here. We would love to hear your comments below - to leave one, please click on "Comments".

How to use an Epsom salt mix as a fertilizer for tomatoes?

If you thought the secret to growing big juicy tomatoes was as simple as popping the plants into a bucket or container of rich, organic soil, think again. These vigorous growers are heavy feeders requiring both frequent watering and supplemental fertilizer. Adding Epsom salt to your tomato care regimen may give them the boost they need to produce robust stems and abundant fruit.

1. Apply Epsom salt to the soil around the base of the tomatoes every two weeks to provide needed magnesium and sulfur to the soil. The Epsom Salt Council explains that plants need both magnesium and sulfur, the active ingredients in Epsom salt, to produce chlorophyll and for proper absorption of both phosphorus and nitrogen.
2. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for each foot in plant height. A 3-foot tomato plant requires 3 tablespoons of Epsom salt. Water the plants thoroughly to dissolve the Epsom salt. This distributes it to the roots of the tomato plant in a usable form.
3. Mix Epsom salt with water before applying, if preferred. The University of Alaska Fairbanks recommends mixing 2 tablespoons of Epsom salt to 1 gallon of water and watering plants as usual. This method is particularly useful when watering young seedlings.

Homemade tomato fertilizer

Planting tomatoes in your back yard helps you control the growing environment to produce fresh, ready-to-eat vegetables. You'll need to use some type of fertilizer to enrich the soil with necessary nutrients so your tomatoes reach their full growth potential. Many items already around your house can make great, homemade tomato fertilizers.

Hair
Hair contains keratin, sulfur and nitrogen. These nutrients slowly release into the soil as the hair breaks down. Because it acts as a slow-release fertilizer, an application of hair fertilizer can add nutrients weeks after being administered. You can use either human hair or pet hair. Animals shed more frequently and copiously than humans, so many gardeners brush their pets often and use the excess hair for the garden. The best way to keep it from blowing away in the wind is to pat it into the dirt. This way it combines with a little bit of soil to weigh it down. If you use a thick layer of hair, it will also act as a barrier, keeping weeds from sprouting through the garden surface.

Eggshells
Eggshells provide calcium and a small amount of nitrogen. Allow the moisture in the eggshells to evaporate in a warm location, or use the heat from a gas oven's pilot light to dry out the shells over a couple of days. Crumble them before sprinkling them around the base of your tomato plant. You can then water the area to help the shells stick to the ground.

Coffee grounds
Used coffee grounds can be applied to the soil of your garden to add nutrients for your tomato plants. The grounds work best when they are completely dry. After you brew your coffee, leave the grounds out for a few days until all the moisture has evaporated. This recipe also works in combination with the eggshells. If you have scattered shells already, add a layer of dry coffee grounds to the mix.

Epsom salts
A mixture of 1 tbsp. of Epsom salts to 1 gallon of water gives tomato plants magnesium and sulfate. You can sprinkle this solution on your plants once a month, but be careful not to overdo it. Salt can be harmful to all plants if doses exceed their tolerance level.

The best fertilizers to grow tomato plants

Whether you are looking to win the blue ribbon at the country fair or just want a nice juicy tomato, knowing the best fertilizer will help you achieve your goal. Tomatoes are heavy feeding plants. They don't take a lot of maintenance other than the occasional watering and feeding from some form of fertilizer, whether a liquid, granule or just your own compost.

Compost
Composting provides one of the best and least expensive ways to fertilize your tomatoes; use yard clippings, eggshells, overripe fruit and anything biodegradable. Avoid using things like meat and grease. Before putting your compost with your tomatoes, check the pH level. A good level of pH ranges between 6.0 and 7.0. Composting keeps the moisture level even at the roots.

Liquid tomato fertilizer
Once you have an established tomato plant, use a liquid fertilizer, which has a fast release and quickly replenishes the lost nutrients. Blended with fish kelp, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, this type of fertilizer is ideal for tomato plants. Buy liquid fertilizer at any major lawn-care provider. The only drawback to using liquid fertilizer lies in the fact that you need to reapply the fertilizer often during rains or prolonged dry spells.

Tomatoes alive
Tomatoes Alive is specifically designed to give tomatoes what they need. It releases some nutrients quickly to start the plant and keep it healthy when it is young and becoming established; it releases other nutrients slowly to avoid root damage. (Also, as the plant matures, it does not need nutrients as quickly.) Home Improvement Time studies proved that tomatoes grown with Tomatoes Alive produced 150 percent more tomatoes than plants with no fertilizer.

Tomato tone
Tomato Tone is an all-natural product made from plants and other natural products. Use this type of fertilizer on transplanted or mature plants. You only need a handful of fertilizer sprinkled around the plant. Tomato Tone has a special formula with more than three million microbes that benefit to the roots, keeping them strong and healthy. According to Veggigardener, tomatoes grown with Tomato Tone grew bigger and faster than those without, and they produced more tomatoes than did plants with no fertilizer. This blend contains 3 percent nitrogen, 4 percent phosphorus and 6 percent potassium; all of which are essential to growing good healthy tomatoes.

Fertilizing cherry tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes are among the easiest tomato plants to grow. They often bear fruit before larger tomato types and suffer fewer diseases. Cherry tomatoes flower and bear fruit all season long, and may grow on long, robust vines, depending on the cultivar. They need plenty of nutrition to keep up with all that growth. Either organic or synthetic nitrogen fertilizers work well for feeding cherry tomatoes, depending on your preference, but take care not to overfeed them.

1. Spread 1 to 2 inches of composted manure on the garden in spring. Till it in to a depth of 6 inches to provide a slow-release source of nitrogen that will fertilize the plants most of the summer as well as improve drainage and soil texture.
2. Apply additional fertilizer when the cherry tomatoes begin to set fruit. Spread a shovelful of manure around the base of the plant and water well. Alternatively, spread granular nitrogen fertilizer for vegetables around the base of the plant, at half the recommended amount.
3. Reapply manure or granular fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks until plants wane in the fall.

Growing Dwarf Pear Trees (without watering) and with the Groasis Waterboxx

Last spring, the author bought and planted 4 bare root dwarf fruit trees purchased from Stark Brothers nursery (online).  The site for these trees was carefully selected to be in a full sun area at the bottom of a hill where water would reach them.  All of these trees are capable of growing well in the zone in which they were planted (Zone 6) After this first year, we were quite disappointed with the lack of significant growth of these trees, so we decided to add the Waterboxx to each of their bases.  The tree we will discuss here is a pear tree, the Custom 2-N-1 Pear Semi-Dwarf.   The tree pre-Waterboxx (in late winter) shown below looks very similar to the tree when was planted (showing the very minimal and disappointing growth first year).

The pear tree (before Waterboxx placement) on 2/22/14, approximately one year after planting

We had planted in spring a year before the above picture, and there was almost no growth.  Below you see the first leave growth with Waterboxx in place.

The pear on 4/27/14 after first bud break (it was a late Spring)

Within a few weeks the Waterboxx planted tree had acquired many leaves.  There is a small amount of new growth (seen by the light greenish yellow leaves at the top of the branches) below.

The growth three weeks later (5/18/14) is significant

The 5 weeks after the above photograph are when the Waterboxx really induced spectacular growth.  The tree increased in height ~50% in a little over a month.  Remember, we did not add any water to the base of the tree or to the Waterboxx.

The pear tree 5 weeks later (6/30/14) as almost doubled in height with the Waterboxx providing consistent water.

May 23, 2015 - The pear tree has outgrown the Waterboxx which has been removed.  You can see how much more growth the tree has undergone.  Because the Waterboxx releases water straight down into the soil, it induces the trees roots to also go straight down to deeper capillary water which will help it through drought.  

For those not familiar with the Waterboxx, it works in several ways, described in detail elsewhere on this site.  In essence, however, it is a self recharging "water battery".  It collects dew and rainwater from the environment, funnels this into the green basin using its lotus leaf inspired lid, and then slowly releases this water to the roots of the growing plant.  The plant's roots grow straight down within the Waterboxx induced water column until they reach deeper capillary water.  At this point (when the tree exhibits a growth spurt, the Waterboxx can be removed and replaced with mulch.  The deeply rooted tree is now resistant to any further drought as it now has this deep root which has access to ground capillary water. Be the first in your area to start growing plants with the Groasis Waterboxx.  Buy the Groasis Waterboxx here.

You can see all our blog posts about planting trees with the Waterboxx here. We would love to hear your comments below - to leave one, please click on "Comments".

Oak Progress with the Groasis Waterboxx

When visiting the main Dew Harvest® LLC website, the image that greets visitors on our explanatory page is a picture of very young but stately oak tree, grown from an acorn found by the author at a local college campus.  We had previously planted a young oak (grown from the same crop of acorns) outside only to see the tree eaten to a stump by rabbits.  We were determined not to let this happen again so after the photograph below was taken (with the oak still in a pot) we planted the tree in its final location in the country in northern Indiana.

Red Oak, grown from seed, May 2013

The oak has survived its first winter in northern Indiana quite well (and the winter of 2013-2014 here was the worst in decades) due to the insulating effect of the Waterboxx during temperature extremes.  The Waterboxx basin is of course self refilling from dew and rain water.  Here we see the Waterboxx planted oak after about one year of in ground growth and around 18 months of age.  As you can see, the canopy has more than doubled in size, and the tree is both healthy and robust.  The tree is also about three times as high. Of note, the tree did receive minor damage in a hail storm a few months before this photo was taken, but the Waterboxx survived without a scratch.

Red Oak, grown from Seed, July 2014

Because the Waterboxx can be left in place until the tree outgrows it.   One of the reasons the Waterboxx is so effective is because it allows the tree to be planted immediately in its final location.  The Oak's tap root have been induced to dive deep in search of capillary water, providing life sustaining water during drought.  The deep roots also prevent uprooting during storms.

May 9, 2015 - the Waterboxx will now be removed and the tree will survive on its own due to its deep Waterboxx induced roots.

The Groasis Waterboxx allows trees to be planted in a much more natural manner, as seen in the video below.

The Groasis Waterboxx can be used for 10 years and potentially up to 10 trees or other plants.  It has a 99% tree survival rate in even the harshest conditions (the Sahara) when used with two trees as recommended.  The Waterboxx allows you to grow trees very cheaply (from seed) or to grow bare root trees you can have shipped to you.  Be the first in your area to start growing plants with the Groasis Waterboxx.  The Waterboxx is available for purchase from our parent website.

We will continue to update this page with photos of the growing red oak, planted from seed and grown with the Groasis Waterboxx.

You can see all our blog posts about planting trees with the Waterboxx here. We would love to hear your comments below - to leave one, please click on "Comments".

How to use phosphorus for tomatoes?

Phosphorus is one of the three main nutrients that manufacturers include in commercial fertilizers -- the other two being nitrogen and potassium. Adding phosphorus to the soil can help stimulate tomato plant growth, as the nutrient allows plant cells to transfer energy for biochemical reactions, like photosynthesis.

Inorganic phosphate
Like all plants, tomato plants can only utilize phosphorus that is in phosphate form. Phosphates are chemicals that occur naturally in soils and in bodies of water. In a phosphate molecule, each phosphorus atom has four oxygen atoms surrounding it.

More specifically, tomato plants can only absorb inorganic phosphates; or phosphates that are not bound to carbon molecules. The plants are able to obtain these phosphates naturally through the phosphorous cycle. During the phosphorus cycle, minerals and solidified animal dung breakdown -- due to erosion or other factors -- and release inorganic phosphates into the soil. Plants absorb these phosphates through their roots and convert them into organic phosphates. Animals, in turn, can eat the plants and "steal" their organic phosphates. When animals excrete these phosphates as dung, microorganisms feed on the dung and convert organic phosphates back into inorganic phosphates. This process is known as mineralization.

Active P pool
According to the University of Minnesota, phosphates in the active P pool are the primary sources of phosphorous for plants. The pool contains three types of phosphates: inorganic phosphates that are connected to small soil particles; organic phosphates that can easily undergo mineralization and will soon become inorganic; and semi-soluble, solid phosphates that have reacted with aluminum, calcium or other elements. All of the phosphates from the active P pool slowly but consistently provide tomato plants with soluble, usable molecules of phosphorus. As the University of Minnesota notes, an acre of land can contain up to a few hundred pounds of active P pool phosphates.

Solution P pool
Tomato plants absorb phosphates in the solution P pool much more rapidly than in the active P pool. For this reason, the solution P pool is much smaller, and will typically account for less than a lb. of phosphates per acre of land. According to the University of Minnesota, the majority of phosphates in the solution P pool are water-soluble, inorganic phosphates known as orthophosphates. Orthophosphates occur as salts or esters, and are the most basic types of phosphates. They occur most commonly in the compound HPO42-, in alkaline soil conditions, and in the compound H2PO4-, in acidic soil conditions. Tomato plants deplete solution P pool phosphates quickly, but fortunately, the active P pool is able to replenish it continuously.

How to use phosphorus?

Tomatoes are commonly grown in many home gardens. While tomatoes are fairly easy to grow, they do require proper fertilization to thrive and produce juicy fruit. Phosphorous is important for tomatoes, as it is responsible for bringing water to the cells of developing fruit. It is also essential for photosynthesis, respiration and protein synthesis. A soil test and necessary feeding help produce healthy fruit. Phosphorous deficiency is most often due to improper fertilization and causes leaves to take on a purple hue.

1. Test your soil before adding any type of nutrients to your garden. If the test shows that the soil is high in nitrogen, use a fertilizer that is higher in phosphorous. A 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 mixture is best.
2. Fertilize plants when first placing them into the ground by adding fertilizer to the hole. Place some dirt on top of the fertilizer before placing the tomato plant in the hole to avoid burning the roots.
3. Fertilize tomatoes plants again when fruit has set. Begin by watering the plant and then spreading the fertilizer around about 6 inches from the plant's base. If the plant is not well-watered, the plant can take up too much fertilizer and the plant will burn. Placing fertilizer too close to the tomato's stem can also burn the plant.

Growing Pumpkins without Watering (and with the Groasis Waterboxx)

Growing pumpkins is a treat for many gardeners, especially those who celebrate Halloween.  Carving pumpkins with children or other loved ones is great fun, made more so by growing the pumpkins yourself. Also, home grown and home made pumpkin pie and baked pumpkin seeds will impress your family and friends throughout the fall and winter holidays.

The biggest problem we have experienced when growing pumpkins is that prime pumpkin growing season - July, August, and September, also tend to be the driest times of the year.  This generally means that pumpkins need to be frequently watered, generally by dragging a hose out to the pumpkin patch.  This is hard work, time consuming, and wasteful of water.  Also, much of this water evaporates due to lack of mulch around the base of the pumpkin plant.

Others around the world have had good success growing pumpkins in very dry areas with the Groasis Waterboxx.  We at Dew Harvest thought we would try our own experiment, and photograph the results for this blog.  We started with pumpkin seeds, planted outdoor in a peat pot for starting.  These were allowed to grow for a few weeks in order to reach proper size.

The pumpkin, grown from seed in a peat pot (6/21/2014)

This small pumpkin plant was then planted in native soil (no potting soil or fertilizer were added) with the evaporation cover around it (to prevent evaporation of soil moisture and surrounding weed growth).  Around 3 gallons of water were poured over the roots of the pumpkin at planting. The Waterboxx was then placed with the figure eight central opening around the plant and filled with water.

The pumpkin, after planting in soil on and after evaporation cover was placed around the stem (6/21/14).

Of note, Waterboxxes come with one hole for wick insertion.  To get more water to the roots of the growing pumpkin, a second 3/16 inch hole was drilled and a second wick inserted on the opposite side of the first wick.  In theory this would lead to depletion of the water in the Waterboxx reservoir, but rainfall and dew have been sufficient to keep the reservoir completely full.

Pumpkin on 6/28/2014 after growth for 7 days with the Waterboxx.  This Waterboxx has 2 wicks rather than the standard one.  

We then documented the growth of the pumpkin vines.  Remember, the Waterboxx is self-refilling with water, and we never added more water to the Waterboxx or soil around the pumpkin after initial planting. Here you see the pumpkin plant in early July.

The Waterboxx planted pumpkin on July 8.  The basin (reservoir) is still completely full even with 2 wicks.

The Waterboxx planted pumpkin on July 16.  As always, no new water was added.  The surrounding grass is drying out, but the pumpkin is still thriving.  

The Waterboxx planted pumpkin on August 2.  Still no water beside that provided by the Waterboxx.  

We will continue to update this blog with pictures of the pumpkin plant throughout the summer and fall.  If you want to grow pumpkins, watermelon, cantaloupe, and of course trees without continued watering, the Waterboxx is ideal for you.  Be the first in your area to begin planting pumpkins and other garden plants with the Groasis Waterboxx.  You can buy the Waterboxx from Dew Harvest® LLC in the United States.

You can see all our blog posts about planting trees with the Waterboxx here. We would love to hear your comments below - to leave one, please click on "Comments".

Tips for growing fall tomatoes successfully

It’s a little-known secret: growing fall tomatoes can extend your tomato harvest until the first frost. Here’s the dirt on planting a second set of plants in midsummer to produce healthy, tasty fruit for weeks or even months into fall.

Tip #1: Plant strong fall seedlings

Newly-planted tomato seedlings must survive the hottest weeks of the summer.

Make sure they have strong root systems before setting them in the garden or container so they have the best opportunity to thrive.

Take cuttings from suckers or "clone" existing plants early enough in the season to allow new seedlings plenty of time to develop strong roots.

Tip #2: Time your planting

Success with growing fall tomatoes depends on smart timing with a dash of good luck thrown in.

Smart timing
Conventional wisdom says to determine a fall tomato planting window by counting back 60-85 days from your area's first frost date.

Plant early enough so that your variety has plenty of time to put out fruit before frost with at least 3-4 weeks padding to allow fruit plenty of time to mature. For example, assume the first frost date in your region is October 31. Simple math tells you to set plants in the ground no later than early to mid-August.

Another way to choose a planting window is to study local daily average temperatures. Time your planting so that plants have flowers when temperatures are cool enough to allow pollination. Optimum daytime temperature range for tomatoes to set fruit is between 70º-85ºF, with night time temperatures consistently between 55º-75ºF.

A dash of good luck
Estimated first frost date is exactly that – an estimate. Sometimes a cold autumn and early frost alter the best gardener’s plans. Tomatoes can’t survive a frost. So even if you plan well, your fall tomato crop may be cut short by Jack Frost’s early arrival. On the other hand, the reverse can be true also – the first frost date may come a couple of weeks after projected, and you may be enjoying fresh tomatoes at Thanksgiving or into December.

Tip #3: Water deeply

A successful fall tomato crop means planting during the heat of the summer. Seedlings need daily, deep watering during the first 7-14 days in order to get established. Thereafter place them on a regular watering schedule to ward off tomato problems and diseases. New plants can grow quickly in the heat.

Tip #4: Shade newly-planted tomatoes

Fall tomatoes are planted mid-summer. They are on the receiving end of the season’s strongest heat and most intense afternoon sun. Here are some ways you can provide some relief.

• Set up a screen on plants’ south and west sides with purchased row cover or shade cloth. Or, create a shade tunnel with inserted stakes or PVC pipe and row cover.
• Try low-tech, low-cost shading with bath towels, old sheets, or drop cloths. Clip coverings to west and south sides of tomato cages or drape them over tomato stakes.
• Recycle old window screens. Set them on the south and west sides of tomatoes.
• Set a folding lawn chair over newly-planted tomato seedlings during the hottest part of the afternoon.
• Plant tomatoes in large containers, placed in full morning sun with afternoon shade. In a couple of weeks when the heat of the summer passes and plants are strong, transfer them to the home garden or move containers to full sun.

Best fall tomato varieties

There are three kinds of fall tomato varieties that are successful in the home garden.

• small tomatoes (like cherry tomatoes) produce large amounts of blossoms, increasing the numbers of fruit that are pollinated even in the heat of the summer
• early to mid-maturing tomatoes (less than 80 days) set fruit and mature in the shortest time, making them easy to grow on a limited time frame
• heat-tolerant varieties pollinate and set fruit earlier and at higher temperatures

Here are some types of tomatoes that gardeners designate as best tomatoes to grow in the fall.

Fall tomato varieties: cherry Tomatoes

Black Cherry tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 65 days, black/purple, cherry

Black Plum tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 80 days, mahogany, plum

Large Red Cherry tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75-80 days, red/pink, plum/cherry (1 ½ - 2 ounces)

Peacevine
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, red, cherry
Particularly high amino acid and vitamin C content

Red Robin
Hybrid, determinate, 55 days, red, cherry

Sun Gold
Hybrid, indeterminate, 55-58 days, gold/orange, cherry

Sweet 100
Hybrid, indeterminate, 70 days, red, cherry
Fall Tomato Varieties: Heirlooms

Black Krim tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 69-80 days, red/brown, beefsteak (16 ounces), resistance: FN

Brandywine
Heirloom, indeterminate, 69-80 days, pink, beefsteak (16+ ounces), resistance: F

Burbank
Heirloom, determinate, 70-80 days, red, globe (4-6 ounces)

Cherokee Purple
Heirloom, indeterminate, 69-80 days, purple/brown/black, beefsteak (16 ounces)

Early Wonder
Heirloom, determinate, 55 days, dark pink, globe (6 ounces)

Garden Peach
Heirloom, indeterminate, 80 days, yellow/pink, globe (4ounces), resistance: FVNT

Green Zebra
Heirloom, determinate, 78 days, green, small (3 ounces)

Nepal
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, red, globe (6-10 ounces)
Fall Tomato Varieties: Hybrids

Better Boy
Hybrid, indeterminate, 75 days, red, beefsteak (12-16 ounces), resistance: VFN

Celebrity Early Girl
Hybrid, indeterminate, 50-52 days, red, globe (8 ounces), resistance: VFF

Jetsetter
Hybrid, indeterminate, 64 days, red, globe (8+ ounces), resistance: VFFNTA

Rutgers
Hybrid, determinate, 75 days, bright red, globe (6-8 ounces), resistance: VFA

Fall tomatoes: heat-tolerant varieties

Floradade
Hybrid, determinate, 80 days, red, medium (7 ounces), resistance: VFFSt

Heat Wave II
Hybrid, determinate, 68 days, red, medium (7 ounces)

Sunmaster
Hybrid, determinate, 72 days, red, medium (7 ounces)

Solar Set
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, medium (8-9 ounces), resistance: VFFF

Solar Fire
Hybrid, determinate, 72 days, red, medium (10 ounces)

Sun Leaper
Hybrid, determinate, 82 days, red, medium (9 ounces)

Best tomato varieties for drying

“Which are the best tomato varieties for drying that can I grow successfully in my home garden?”

When it comes to drying tomatoes successfully – whether it’s sun-dried tomatoes, tomatoes dried in a dehydrator, tomatoes dried in the oven or even in the microwave – grow varieties that have few seeds, low moisture content, and a rich, tangy flavor. It helps if plants are indeterminate because they’ll produce a steady stream of fruit, rather than a mega-crop all at once, which makes drying in shifts manageable. Small fruit works best, because that size allows for even drying. Experiment with some of the varieties below and see which ones give you a pliable consistency when dried.

Heirloom tomato varieties for drying

Carol Chyko Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 76 days, red, large plum (1-3 pounds)
Meaty tomato with very few seeds.

Costoluto Genovese Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 85 days, red, large
Originated in Italy. Likes heat. Often used for making juice in addition to drying.

Coyoto Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 50 days, yellow, cherry
Grows wild in Mexico. Sweet and prolific.

Federle Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 90 days, red, plum (7 inches long)
Long, banana-shaped tomatoes. Good for drying, salsa, and paste.

Opalka Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 78 days, red, plum (5 inches)
Originally from Poland; nicknamed the “Polish Torpedo.” Meaty and flavorful with very few seeds.

Principe Borghese Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 78 days, red, plum (1-2 ounces), resistance: cracking
A variety from Italy. Known as one of the best drying tomatoes. Grows well in cool weather.

Russo Sicilian Toggeta Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, red, globe (3 inches)
Italian variety. Not a true plum tomato but dries well. Sets fruit and bears early; produces until hard frost.

San Marzano Redorta Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 78 days, red, plum (8 ounces)
Named for Pizzo Redorta in Bergamo, Italy. A cousin to the San Marzano tomato and considered to be more flavorful.

Zapotec Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 85 days, pink- red
Mexican Indian tomato variety with a fairly hollow interior; pleated look

Open-pollinated tomato varieties for drying

Napoli Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 79 days, red, plum (3 ounces)
Meaty tomatoes with heavy yield. Excellent for sauce, paste, drying, canning, and freezing.

Roma VF Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 75 days, red, paste (3 inches), resistance; VF
Classic Italian paste tomato; popular in paste, sauce, ketchup, and canning

Varieties to grow indoors

The best indoor tomato varieties are small-fruited plants, such as cherry or plum tomatoes. Small-fruited plants produce a large number of tomatoes. Because small fruit have less skin to ripen than large tomatoes, they ripen faster. Small size and quick ripening are helpful indoors where there may be limited light.

If possible, choose indeterminate tomatoes to grow indoors. Indeterminates never set terminal flower clusters, but only lateral ones, and continue to produce fruit all season long, well into spring. Determinates, on the other hand, produce fruit for a couple of weeks. Then production fades out.

Nevertheless, gardeners have had success growing the varieties listed here indoors, even though some are determinates. That’s because many are compact determinate tomato varieties and take less space indoors.

Indoor tomato varieties: heirlooms

Baxter's Early Bush
Heirloom, determinate, 70-72 days, cherry red, (1 ½” round)
Ripens early

Pink Ping Pong
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, cherry-pink colored (1 ¼” round)
Fruit is the size of ping pong balls, hence the name.

Siberia
Heirloom, determinate, 50 days, bright red, small-fruited (up to 5 ounces)
Excellent cool weather variety that can set fruit at low temperatures, so is ideal for homes with low winter thermostat settings. Tomato lore has it that Siberia was smuggled out of Russia in 1975.

Silvery Fir Tree
Heirloom, determinate, 55-60 days, orange/red, small-fruited (up to 3” across)
Fern-like foliage gives this heirloom from Russia the ability to be grown even as an ornamental

Tommy Toe
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70 days, bright red, cherry
Tommy Toe is said to have originated in the Ozark Mountains and carries a strong disease resistance.

Yellow Pear
Heirloom, indeterminate, 71 days, bright yellow, pear-shaped cherry (1 ½” round)

Indoor tomato varieties: hybrids

Micro Tom
Hybrid, determinate, 85-88 days, red, super dwarf (tomatoes are about the size of croutons)
The average 6” Micro Tom produces a couple of dozen tomatoes.

Orange Pixie Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 52 days, yellow-orange, large cherry (1 ¾” round)

Patio
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, cherry (2” round)

Red Robin
Hybrid, determinate, 55 days, red, cherry (about 1 ¼” round)

Small Fry
Hybrid, determinate, 65 days, red, cherry (1” round), resistance: VFN

Tiny Tim
Hybrid, determinate, 60 days, bright red, cherry (½ - ¾” round)

Totem
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, crimson red, cherry (1” round)

Varieties for hanging baskets

For baskets, choose hanging tomatoes with shallow root systems. Seedlings won’t need staking – foliage tumbles and sprawls over basket sides.

Heirloom tomato varieties for hanging baskets

Baxter’s Early Bush Cherry Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 72 days, red, cherry (1 ½” round)
Matures 7-10 days earlier than most other cherry tomato varieties. They’re known to be prolific producers even if conditions aren’t perfect. Taste is typical sweet/tart tomato flavor. Fruit resists splitting and keeps well after picking.

Whippersnapper Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 52 days, pink/red, cherry (1 inch)
Yields clusters of 5-18 fruit. Whippersnapper grows well in containers, pots, and baskets.

Hybrid tomato varieties for hanging baskets

Floragold Basket Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 55 days, yellow/orange, cherry
Developed for containers and baskets. Floragold Basket’s early maturation also makes it suitable for growing indoors.

Florida Basket
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, plum-shaped (2 inches), resistance: gray leaf spot
Developed at the University of Florida specifically for hanging baskets

Micro Tom Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 85-88 days, red, dwarf cherry (1/4 inch)
Micro Tom is an unusually small tomato plant developed at the University of Florida’s breeding program. Micro Toms can even be grown successfully in 4” pots! The average 6” plant produces a couple of dozen tomatoes. Great for kids!

Tumbling Tom Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, cherry (1-2 inches)
Can grow in smaller hanging baskets even just 10” diameter.

Open pollinated tomato varieties for hanging baskets

Red Robin Tomato
OP (open pollinated), determinate, 55 days, dwarf cherry (1 ¼ inches)
Can flourish with less light than other varieties. Fruit is sweet with a “real” tomato taste that’s sometimes missing in cherry tomatoes.

Best varities for small containers

The most important step in growing tomatoes in pots successfully is choosing appropriate tomato varieties for the containers you are using.

It’s the pot size that helps you know what variety to choose. Some types of tomatoes work well in larger containers. Some can grow in smaller pots and even thrive in them!

The tomato varieties listed here have a reputation for working well in containers, buckets, tubs, pots, and window boxes 5 gallons or smaller.

Baxter's Early Bush Cherry

Determinate
Days to maturity: 72
Season: early
Height/habit: upright, 18-36.” Can grow to 4 feet high in ground.
Fruit color: red
Fruit shape: 1 ½” diameter
Baxter’s Early Bush tomatoes mature 7-10 days earlier than most other cherry tomato varieties. They’re known to be prolific producers even if conditions aren’t perfect. Taste is typical sweet/tart tomato flavor. Fruit resists splitting and keeps well after picking.

Elfin

Determinate
Heirloom
Days to maturity: 55
Season: early
Height/habit: short, bushy plant, 9-18”
Fruit color: red
Fruit shape: ¾” grape tomatoes with slightly elongated shape
Elfin is a grape tomato with a sweet flavor. Fruit appears in large clusters.

Lyana

Determinate
Days to maturity: 55-70
Season: very early
Height/habit: compact, bushy plant, 24-30”
Fruit color:bright red crimson interior
Fruit shape: cherry tomatoes, about 1” diameter
Lyana was developed in eastern Europe and introduced to North America in 2004. It can produce well in a 1 gallon pot, but in a larger container it will deliver even better results. Fruit has a strong tomato taste.

Micro Tom

Determinate
Hybrid
Days to maturity: 85-88
Season: mid-season
Height/habit: super dwarf, 5-8” tall. Called “the world’s smallest tomato variety.”
Fruit color: red
Fruit shape: about the size of salad croutons
Micro Tom is an unusually small tomato plant developed at the University of Florida’s breeding program. It works great in baskets, small pots, indoors, or in mixed containers – or if you simply don’t have much room. Micro-Toms can even be grown successfully in 4” pots! The average 6” plant produces a couple of dozen tomatoes. Great for kids!

Patio F

Determinate
Hybrid
Days to maturity: 70
Height/habit: very compact, up to 24” or less
Fruit color: bright red
Fruit shape: tennis ball-size, about 3-4 ounces
Disease resistance: F (fusarium wilt)
This dwarf variety is one of the most popular for growing in pots on patios, decks, and balconies – in containers at least 12” in diameter and 12” deep. Its foliage dark green and attractive. Tomatoes are flavorful. Patio produces so many tomatoes that the weight can pull plants over, so it’s best to stake it.

Red Robin

Determinate
Days to maturity: 55
Season: very early
Height/habit: about 12”. A true miniature!
Fruit color: red
Fruit shape: about 1 ¼” round
This popular dwarf cherry tomato thrives in small pots, baskets, as part of mixed containers, and even indoors. Red Robin can flourish with less light than other varieties. Fruit is sweet with a “real” tomato taste that’s sometimes missing in cherry tomatoes.

Tiny Tim

Determinate
Days to maturity: 60
Height/habit: compact plants, 10-18” high, 14” across (slightly bigger in ground)
Fruit color: bright red
Fruit shape: ½ -¾” cherry tomatoes
Plant Tiny Tim in pots 8” or larger. Staking isn’t needed. Tiny Tim manages cool spring weather better than many tomatoes and is a solid producer for its size. This variety also works well when grown indoors or hydroponically.

Totem

Determinate
Days to maturity: 70
Season: early
Height/habit: dwarf, bushy plant that reaches just 12-18”
Fruit color: crimson red
Fruit shape: 1” round cherry tomatoes
Abundant fruit and dark green, attractive foliage make Totem a favorite variety in containers, window boxes and for indoor tomato gardeners. Dwarf habit means Totem needs no staking.

Yellow Pygmy

Indeterminate
Days to maturity: 110-120
Season: late
Height/habit: true bush habit with unusual branching; about 12”
Fruit color: yellow with a tinge of orange
Fruit shape: dime-sized
Low, dense foliage and tiny tomatoes make Yellow Pygmy a fun addition to your containers and pots. Flowers don’t fully open. Fruit has a sharp flavor that’s a touch acidic. Plants continue producing after first set of fruit

Best varieties for large containers

The most important step in growing tomatoes in pots successfully is choosing appropriate tomato varieties for the containers you are using.

It’s the pot size that helps you know what variety to choose. Some types of tomatoes work well in smaller containers. Some need to grow in larger pots in order to stay healthy and produce fruit.

The tomato varieties listed here have a reputation for working well in containers, buckets, tubs, pots, and window boxes 5 gallons or larger.

Heirloom tomato varieties for large containers

Sprite Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 60 days, bright red, grape (oval shaped)
Sprite is an excellent grape tomato perfectly suited to patio and container gardening because of its short, compact size. Tomatoes are prolific and continue to produce until frost. Fruit is sweet with thin, crisp skins.

Hybrid tomato varieties for large containers

Big Boy Bush Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 72 days, red, globe (10-11 ounces), resistance: VFNT
Plants are just half the size of the original Better Boy, but they produce the same heavy number of tomatoes with similar flavor. Bush habit doesn’t require staking, but heavy producing plants may do best when you cage them.

Bush Goliath Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 68 days, red, globe (3-4 inches), resistance: VFN
One of the best patio and container varieties, Bush Goliath is also suitable for small gardens and for indoors. It produces good yields consistently until frost.

Celebrity Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70-72 days, red, globe (8-16 ounces), resistance: VFNT
Celebrity grows well in almost every region and tolerates a broad range of conditions. These vigorous plants produce uniform, prolific, crack-resistant fruit nearly all season. Celebrity was an All-America Selection in 1984 and is considered to be among the most disease resistant tomato varieties.

Early Girl Bush Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 60 days, red, globe (4 ounces), resistance: VFFNT
Early Girl is well-suited to areas with shorter growing seasons because it ripens so early. True bush habit means no staking needed!

Husky Cherry Red Tomato
Hybrid, semi-determinate, 65 days, red, cherry (1 inch), resistance: VFA
Husky Cherry Red’s habit is shaped like a Christmas tree, reaching 3-48 inches high, with dense production in clusters lasts all season. The variety has a well-deserved reputation for large yields.

Patio F Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, bright red, globe (about 3-4 ounces), resistance: F
This dwarf variety is one of the most popular for growing in pots on patios, decks, and balconies – in containers at least 12” in diameter and 12” deep. Its foliage dark green and attractive. Tomatoes are flavorful. Patio produces so many tomatoes that the weight can pull plants over, so it’s best to stake it.

Sweet 100 Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 65 days, red, cherry (very small – ½ inch), resistance: VFNT
Sweet 100 is a favorite to grow in garden plots but works well in large containers when staked. Multiple-branched clusters produce 100 or more small but incredibly sweet fruits – hence the name. Many gardeners cite their only problem with Sweet 100 is overproduction.

Sweet Baby Girl Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 65 days, dark red, cherry tomato, resistance: T
Called by some as “the sweetest, best-tasting red cherry,” Sweet Baby Girl Hybrid grows on long clusters and produces incredible yields.

Window Box Roma Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, paste, (2-3 ounces) resistance: VFN
Window Box Roma was bred to grow in pots, containers, and window boxes. Thick stems mean support is not needed. Roma fruit is good not just for salads and snacking but also makes great sauce.

Best tomatoes for cold climates

It used to be that growing tomatoes for cold climates meant spending time in the greenhouse.

Not so anymore, thanks to creative breeders and a few special gardening techniques that are helpful anywhere summers are a bit cool.

The best tomatoes for cold climates are short- to mid-season tomatoes. That’s to say, they set fruit in cooler temperatures – and in many cases, their fruits reach maturity in the shortest number of days possible.

Check out these tomatoes that have a reputation for growing well in colder climates.

Hybrid tomatoes for cold climates

Celebrity Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, globe (8-12 ounces), resistance: VFFNTA

Golden Nugget Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 60 days, yellow, cherry (1 inch), resistance:V
Developed by the Oregon State University. Among the first cherry tomatoes of the season to produce.

Husky Gold Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 70 days, golden, globe (7 ounces), resistance: VFA
1993 All-America Selections Award Winner

Orange Pixie Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 52 days, yellow-orange, large cherry (1 ¾ inches)
Sets well in cool temperatures

Oregon Spring Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 58-60 days, red, globe (5 ounces)
Developed by Oregon State University for short-season gardens

Siletz Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 52 days, red, globe (10-12 ounces)
Developed by Dr. James Baggett at Oregon State University for short-season gardens

Heirloom tomatoes for cold climates

Bush Beefsteak Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 62 days, deep red, beefsteak (8 ounces)

Galina’s (Galina) Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, yellow-orange, cherry (1 inch)
Originally from Siberia

Glacier Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 55 days, red, small globe (2-3 ounces)
Sets fruit well in cold weather. American.

Gregori’s Altai Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 67 days, pink-red, beefsteak (8-12 ounces)
Seeds originated in the Altai mountain region near Siberia’s Chinese border

Grushovka Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 65 days, pink, egg-shaped (3 inches long)
Originated in Siberia. Excellent variety for canning.

Kimberly Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate, 54-58 days, red, cherry (golf ball-sized, 1-2 ounces)
Developed in the 1980s by John de Rocque of Kimberly, BC, Canada. Fruit sets well in both cool and warmer growing regions. Good container tomato.

Legend Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 68 days, red, beefsteak (14-16 ounces), resistance: late blight
Developed by Oregon State University. Sets fruit well in both cool and warm temperatures. Strong resistance to late blight.

Manitoba Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 58 days, red, globe (6 ounces), resistance: VF
Developed by Morden Experimental Farm in Manitoba for southern Canadian and northern US gardeners.

New Yorker Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 66 days, scarlet, beefsteak (6 ounces), resistance: VA
Sets fruit well in cool temperatures

Polar Baby Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 60 days, red, globe (2-4 ounces)
Developed in Alaska for cold weather gardens

Polar Beauty Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 63 days, red, globe (2-4 ounces)
Developed in Alaska for cold weather gardens

Polar Star Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 65 days, red, globe (3-4 ounces)
Blossom ends exhibit a star pattern. Developed in Alaska for cold weather gardens

Sasha’s Altai Tomato
Heirloom, 60 days, bright red, globe (4-6 ounces)
From Siberia. Selected by Organic Garden Magazine as one of the 10 best early-producing tomatoes in the world

Siberia Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 50 days, bright red, small-fruited (up to 5 ounces)
Excellent cool weather variety that can set fruit at low temperatures. Tomato lore has it that Siberia was smuggled out of Russia in 1975.

Silvery Fir Tree Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 55-60 days, orange/red, small-fruited (up to 3” across)
Fern-like foliage gives this heirloom from Russia the ability to be grown even as an ornamental

Stupice Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 55 days, red, small slicing tomatoes (2-3 inches)
Extremely early, cold-tolerant variety from Czechoslovakia

Sugar Baby
Heirloom, determinate, 54 days, orange, large cherry (1-2 ounces)
Taste more like melon than tomato

Cool tolerant tomato varieties

What are the best cool tolerant tomato varieties – the tomatoes that grow well in damp climates?

Cool, wet areas present special challenges for the tomato gardener.

Mostly because tomatoes love the heat!

If possible, choose small-fruited varieties since larger tomatoes often turn out watery and mealy in cool weather.

But creative breeders have helped us out quite a bit.

They’ve found or developed special types of tomatoes that can flourish even when days are less-than-warm and particularly damp.

Now you can grow cool-tolerant tomatoes by using a few special techniques - and by choosing appropriate varieties. Check these out.

Cool tolerant hybrid tomatoes

Better Boy Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 75 days, red, beefsteak (12-16 ounces), resistance: VFN
Guinness World Record holder, producing 342 lbs of tomatoes from one plant

Dona Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 65 days, red, globe (6 ounces), resistance: VFFNT
Gourmet tomato from France

Early Cascade Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 55 days, red, globe (2 ½ inches), resistance: VFA
Dependable even in the Pacific Northwest’s wet weather

Early Girl Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 50-52 days, red, globe (8 ounces), resistance: VFF

Oregon Spring Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 58-60 days, red, globe (5 ounces)
Developed by Oregon State University for short-season gardens

Quick Pick Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 66 days, red, globe (5 ounces)< resistance: VFNTA
Prone to sunscald in hot weather

Sun Gold Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 55-58 days, gold/orange, cherry (1 inch), resistance: FVNT
From England. Known for its sweetness.

Sweet 100 Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 65 days, red, cherry (1/2 ounce)
High vitamin C content

Cool tolerant heirloom tomatoes

Anna Russian TomatoHeirloom, indeterminate, 65-70 days, red, oxheart (up to 16 ounces)
Seeds brought to Oregon by a Russian immigrant

Black Prince Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70 days, red/black, globe (2 ounces)
Introduced from Irkutsk, Siberia. Grows well in cooler climates. Offers considerable health benefits.

Persimmon Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 79 days, golden/orange, beefsteak (12-32 ounces)
Reliable, rich-tasting though not a huge producer. Variety from Russia.

Principe Borghese Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 78 days, red, plum (1-2 ounces), resistance: cracking
A variety from Italy. Known as one of the best drying tomatoes. Grows well in cool weather.

Stupice Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 55 days, red, small slicing tomatoes (2-3 inches)
Extremely early, cold-tolerant variety from Czechoslovakia

Cool tolerant open-pollinated tomatoes

Bellstar Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 70 days, red, plum (4-5 ounces), resistance: V, cracking
Larger and earlier than other plum tomatoes. Excellent for sauce, puree, paste, juice, and canning. Developed by Dr. Jack Metcalf in Ontario, Canada. Tolerates cool temperatures well.

Black Cherry Tomato OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate, 65 days, black/purple, cherry (1 inch)
Classic black tomato taste

Cold Set Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate, 65 days, red, globe (4 inches)
Tolerates light frost

Oroma Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 70 days, red, plum (5 inches long), resistance: V
Excellent for canning, paste, sauce, and ketchup

Santa Cruz Kada tomato
OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate, 85 days, red, plum, resistance: VF
Grows well in foggy, cool areas

Most blight-resistant tomato varieties

While blight resistant tomato varieties are not immune to early blight or late blight, they have a stronger resilience than other types of tomatoes. By growing blight resistant tomatoes, you have a better chance at cultivating a healthy crop.

Tomato blight is a common problem that attacks tomato leaves, stems, and fruit. There are two types: early blight and late blight. Both are caused by different types of fungi. Early blight attacks leaves and stems. It causes plants to under produce. Late blight produces spots and mold on leaves and fruit and can overtake a plant within days if not treated.

Breeders continue to develop blight resistant tomato varieties. During summer 2010, researchers at Cornell University tested varieties that are resilient to both early and late blight. Until they are commercially available, gardeners will have to choose tomatoes that have already proven to be resilient to one or the other – whichever type of blight is most prevalent in their local gardens. For now, one of the best ways to prevent early blight and late blight in your crop is to choose and grow blight resistant tomato varieties.

Tomato varieties resistant to early blight

Juliet Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 60 days, red, elongated cherry (1 ounce), resistance: cracking, blight
1999 All-America Selections Winner

Legend Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 68 days, red, beefsteak (14-16 ounces), resistance: early blight, late blight
Developed by Oregon State University. Sets fruit well in both cool and warm temperatures. Strong resistance to late blight.

Manalucie Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 82 days, red, globe, resistance: blossom end rot, gray leaf mold, early blight, fusarium wilt
Heavy foliage that protects fruit from heat

Manyel Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 75 days, golden yellow, globe (8-10 ounces)
A native American variety. Its name translates as “many moons.” Known for its tangy citrus flavor.

Matt’s Wild Cherry Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70 days, red, cherry (1/2 inch), resistance: early blight
Linked to a wild Mexican tomato variety. Considered to be frost resistant.

Mountain Fresh Plus Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 77 days, red, globe (12 ounces), disease resistance: VFFN, blossom end rot, early blight
Part of the Mountain tomato series developed by NC State University

Mountain Supreme
Hybrid, determinate, 69-70 days, red, globe, resistance: VF, blight
Part of the Mountain tomato series developed by NC State University

Old Brooks Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 78 days, red, globe (6-8 ounces), resistance: blossom end rot, early blight, late blight
A good variety for canning.

Tommy Toe Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70 days, red, cherry (1 inch)
Originated in the Ozark Mountains, but is very popular in Australia

Tomato varieties resistant to late blight

Fantasio Tomato
Hybrid, red, globe, (8 ounces) resistance: VFNT, late blight
Popular in the U.K.

Ferline Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 95 days, globe (5 ounces), resistance: VF, blight
Exceptional blight tolerance. Low acidity.

Golden Sweet Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 60 days, deep yellow, grape, resistance: late blight, cracking
Fun to serve with red grape tomatoes

Legend Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 68 days, red, beefsteak (14-16 ounces), resistance: early blight, late blight
Developed by Oregon State University. Sets fruit well in both cool and warm temperatures. Strong resistance to late blight.

Old Brooks Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 78 days, red, globe (6-8 ounces), resistance: blossom end rot, early blight, late blight
A good variety for canning.

Best tomatoes for hot, dry climates

What are the best tomatoes for hot, dry climates?

Desert-like areas present special challenges for the gardener, including drought, intense sun, wind, and sandy or clay soil.

But you can grow tomatoes successfully in hot, dry areas by using a few special techniques … and by choosing appropriate varieties.

Look for tomato varieties with these qualities:

Short- to midseason maturity.Tomatoes that flower early (even when nighttime temperatures are cool) and reach the picking stage sooner than later can be harvested before the desert climate’s hottest season.

Disease resistance. Early blight spreads easily in hot climates.
Thick stems. Strong tomatoes can withstand wind and exposure that’s so common in hot, dry climates.

Hybrid tomatoes for hot, dry climates

Beefmaster Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 80 days, deep red, beefsteak (16-32 ounces), resistance: VFNASt
Produces enormous yields of tomatoes weighing up to 2 pounds

Celebrity Tomato
Hybrid, determinate, 70 days, red, globe (8-12 ounces), resistance: VFFNTA
1984 All-America Selections Award Winner

Early Girl Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 50-52 days, red, globe (8 ounces), resistance: VFF

Sweet 100 Tomato
Hybrid, indeterminate, 65 days, red, cherry (1/2 ounce)
High vitamin C content

Heirloom tomatoes for hot, Dry climates

Arkansas Traveler Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 90 days, pink, medium (6 ounces)
Originated in the Ozark Mountains

Brandywine OTV Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 72 days, red, beefsteak (16 ounces)
Grows well in warm weather. A cross between Brandywine yellow and an unknown red variety. OTV stands for “off the vine.”

Burbank Slicing Tomato
Heirloom, determinate, 70 days, red, globe
Developed by Luther Burbank about 1915

Costoluto Genovese Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 85 days, red, large
Originated in Italy. Likes heat. One of the best tomatoes for making juice.

Eva Purple Ball Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70 days, red/purple, globe (5 ounces), resistance: cracking
An 1800s variety from Germany’s Black Forest region. Grows well in heat.

Great White Beefsteak
Heirloom, indeterminate, 85 days, white, beefsteak (10 ounces), resistance: crack resistant, drought resistant, sun scald resistance
Heavy foliage helps protect fruit. Performs well in heat.

Marvel Striped Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 95 days, bi-color, beefsteak (up to 2 pounds)
Originated in Oaxaca, Mexico. Performs well in heat

Purple Calabash Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 90 days, purple/burgundy, ruffled (2-3 inches)
A true purple tomato. Performs well in heat. Believed to have originated in Mexico.

Thessaloniki Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 80 days, red, globe (8 ounces), resistance: cracking, sunscald
Originated in Greece

Yellow Pear Tomato
Heirloom, indeterminate, 70-80 days, bright yellow, pear-shaped cherry (1 ½” round)

OP (Open-Pollinated) tomato varieties for hot, dry climates

Homestead 24 Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 80 days, red, globe (8 ounces), resistance: FA
Sets fruit even in very hot weather

Prize of the Trials Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate, 80 days, orange, large cherry (2 ounces, apricot-size), resistance: cracking
Does well in dry, hot regions

Roma VF Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), determinate, 75 days, red, paste (3 inches), resistance: VF
Classic Italian paste tomato; popular in paste, sauce, ketchup, and canning

Porter or Porter Improved Tomato
OP (open-pollinated), indeterminate; 72-78 days; red or pink, plum, (4 ounces), resistance: VF
Developed by Porter & Son Seed Company for hot southern regions. Performs extremely well in high heat and low humidity. Excellent for canning and for making juice.